tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31672915935503635722024-03-13T08:49:01.823-07:00Amy's Travels and Other Such AdventuresDr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-25264310519802963482017-10-05T17:10:00.002-07:002018-08-03T10:54:14.083-07:00Fifteen Years as a Californian!<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">With
all of the anticipation about giving birth, I didn’t realize that August 3,
2017, marked the 15th anniversary of my moving to California! On August 3,
2002, after an 8-day road trip across the country from Philadelphia, I crossed
into Fresno. I immediately wondered, “Where is California?” It was 112 degrees
and almost everywhere I looked was a “W” or “Abortion Kills” bumper sticker. I
felt like I had entered some kind of hell. Fifteen years, a PhD, a career, an
elected office, a husband, and two kids later, I have a lot on which to reflect
and for which to be grateful!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">When
I left PA that July day in 2002, I had an old stuffed bear strapped into the
backseat and a best friend (with an amazingly comfortable and tolerant shoulder)
next to me in the front seat. Aside from the fear and anticipation, as well as
dreams and hope, I had little else. I knew no one where I was going, and I depleted most of my money to get to CA. All I really knew was that I had to get
out of the dead-end life I was living and I was willing to risk anything to do
that. The opportunity to attend graduate school on the other side of the
country was the perfect escape. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Prior
to that summer, I had been working in restaurant management. This was after
several years of random jobs—and no jobs—that I could get with my “versatile”
undergraduate degree in psychology. I had taken a few graduate classes toward a
Master’s degree in criminal justice, but wasn’t sure if that was the right
direction for me or what I wanted to do. In the meantime, I had become
financially and emotionally dependent on a relationship that was not healthy
for either of us. I knew that I had to make a drastic and fast move away or
risk settling into that “normal” for the rest of my life. I remember sitting on
a long, hard bench in the foyer of a pub having a come-to-Jesus talk with my
brother, who has always also been a confidante and level-headed advisor, not to
mention great friend. Rather, he had a come-to-Jesus talk with me. I was at a
crossroads and didn’t know what to do or how to do it. He gave me the strength
and courage to do what I needed to reach the potential that he saw in me then,
which I didn’t see in myself for many years to come. And while others suggested—both
subtly and not-so-subtly—that I should accept my fate in the world and in my
economic and social class and settle into my current situation, he urged me—in fact
ordered me—to go find my own way. I will never forget that hard bench or that
talk. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">I
applied to a graduate program in Fresno, California, that was a great fit and
then went to visit a friend in Belgium. In the time it took me to return and
interview on the phone, I was accepted into a PhD program across the country.
It was my door, and I opened it and not walked, but ran through it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">That
drive across the country, filled with anticipation, was one of the best trips I’ve
ever taken. I had almost forgotten that I wasn’t returning to Philly and my old
life until we crossed into California and the self-doubt and anxiety took over.
I wondered what I had done and whether I made the right decision. That anxiety
was doubled when I realized that I had landed in what is one of the most
Christian conservative districts in California! To say that I didn’t quite fit
in is an understatement. And as a city girl, I found the suburban vibe of
Fresno to be frustrating. But I stayed busy with school and research and
working with at-risk kids (where I confidently realized that I did not want to
do clinical work as a career!). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">In
my second year, I had an opportunity to intern with one of the Supervisors on
the County Board of Supervisors. Although I knew where I stood on certain
issues, I had never been political in any sense. Nor had I ever worked on or
even thought about policy. It wasn’t something that I was considering, but a
very wise friend who had done the same internship the prior year said to me, “You
should do it. Even if you don’t like it, you’ll learn a lot.” That stuck with
me and convinced me that, once again, I should walk through a door with the
word “OPPORTUNITY” on it in invisible ink. I ended up staying for three years,
working for the only Democrat in the county and learning not only about
constituent services and “pothole issues,” but also about how I could use
research and evidence to influence policy and even attitudes. This eventually
became my career. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">As
I finished up my Master’s thesis research, I remember having a strange feeling
that I had never had before: Contentment. I was truly happy in my life and, for
the first time, excited about my future and its potential. I wasn’t too into
the dating scene (there weren’t too many men there who were from somewhere
else, wanted to leave Fresno, and had higher education, all of which were my
criteria). In fact, the book Quirkyalone became my bible. It preached the idea
of self-fulfillment and not settling for anyone or anything for the sake of it,
but waiting for the perfect person for you. Someone who didn’t “complete” you,
but who complimented you. And in that Spring of 2004, I met a guy who seemed
nice and funny. I remember telling him on our first date that I was content at
the moment with my life and my direction and that I wasn’t interested in a
serious relationship. He agreed that we should take things slowly and play
things by ear. A few months later, I was traveling in Japan and told a friend
that I would end up marrying that guy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">In
2006, I completed my PhD program and my dissertation research. I had been
hoping to teach for a semester at our Nairobi campus, but that had fallen
through. The previous year, I had attended a meeting in Mexico City and fell in
love with the city. With another door opening, the university’s Mexico City
campus needed a professor for an undergraduate class, so off I went to Mexico
City. While still in Mexico, I interviewed for a job with the California
judicial branch to do policy research in the area of juvenile justice. I ultimately
turned down a job offer to stay in Mexico to take the policy research job in
San Francisco, where I still work today. That nice and funny guy who I was
dating in Fresno came to San Francisco with me, and seven years later, I indeed
married that guy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">San
Francisco has given me so many incredible opportunities and experiences. From
the moment I arrived I jumped in to work with organizations that I admired and
respected. From the San Francisco Women’s Political Committee to the National
Council on Jewish Women to the World Affairs Council, I was thrilled to be
working on policy issues to improve the lives of women and girls and to be
working toward getting more women into leadership roles. I was then given the
opportunity of a lifetime to apply some of that work to myself. Upon some
friends’ recommendation, I applied for and was accepted to the <a href="http://www.emergeca.org/">Emerge California</a> program, which trains
Democratic women to run for office. This program opened up so many additional doors
and introduced me to so many inspiring, incredible women doing amazing work. It
also gave me an opportunity to utilize my leadership skills in ways that I
never thought of, and gave me the tools (and courage) I needed to run for
office myself. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">I
can’t count how many times I’ve had to pinch myself to believe where I was and
how far I’ve come. From being elected as a California Democratic Party delegate
to attending events and chatting with US Congress members to briefing state
elected officials on issues important to our community to shaking hands with
the Vice-President of the United States, I often find myself wondering how I
got so incredibly lucky to be presented with so many opportunities. What is
most thrilling, though, is the opportunity to be a part of positive changes in
the city and the state that will ultimately improve people’s lives. I was
passionate about being part of <a href="http://vaccinatecalifornia.org/" target="_blank">Vaccinate California</a> and working to pass SB 277
and the work I’ve done to reduce human trafficking across California, and I was
thrilled to be part of a team bringing back to life City College of San
Francisco and making it accessible to more people. I’m equally thrilled to be a
part of a movement to make higher education tuition free again in California. And
I’m confident that the legislation I wrote to close a loophole in the Paid
Family Leave Act will eventually pass. With the horrors on the national
political stage right now, I’m also excited to be focused on services in my own
neighborhood on the board of the <a href="http://www.rdnc.org/" target="_blank">Richmond District Neighborhood Center</a>. There
are so many other projects I’m working on, too!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">My
most important title and role, of course, is “new mom”. I gave birth to my
first child while campaigning for the Community College Board, and with the
birth of my second on August 1, a day before my 15th anniversary of moving to
California, I have a new perspective on how important it is to have strong
community leaders making our world, our state, our city, and our neighborhood a
better place for them. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">San
Francisco is a different city than it was when I arrived. As much as I love
this city, it is a hard city to live in, and becoming harder—and less
affordable—by the day, especially with kids. As much as I would love to stay
here forever, I know that the time will eventually come when things like owning
a home or affording small luxuries will override the benefits that the city
still affords. I don’t know what the future holds, but I do know that getting
in that car in 2002 and starting my life over as a Californian was one of the
best decisions I’ve ever made and truly changed my life for the better. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-33518142044590068222016-06-01T13:40:00.003-07:002016-06-01T14:11:55.323-07:00Iceland, April 2016<div class="MsoNormal">
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<i><a href="https://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWQC" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">Link to all photos here.</span></a></i><br />
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For my 40<sup>th</sup> birthday, I couldn’t think of
anything better to do than to have a girls’ trip to Iceland. Well, that and
going to the <a href="http://amybacharach.blogspot.com/2016/04/french-laundry-for-my-40th-birthday.html" target="_blank">French Laundry</a>. And between dealing with newish motherhood and spending a lot
of energy trying to find that elusive work-life balance and “leaning in” in the
appropriate manner, the time was ripe for a real vacation (because let’s face
it, traveling with a baby or toddler isn’t a vacation; it’s a trip where you do
everything you normally do but in a different location).<br />
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Many people have asked me why I chose Iceland. As someone
who loves hot springs and a water culture, it’s somewhere I’ve always wanted to
go. Since Matt does not have the same love of hot springs, I figured it would
be a good place for a solo or girls’ trip. As it turned out, four of my
girlfriends from across the world were able to join me: Johanna, a teacher
living in Abu Dhabi and a friend from my undergrad years 20 years ago; Laura,
my best friend who I met in graduate school and who is currently living in New
Zealand; Leah, who I also know from grad school; and Thea, one of my <a href="http://www.emergeca.org/" target="_blank">Emerge</a> sisters and fellow
local political rock star who I met here in San Francisco. It was a little
strange to have so many of my different worlds in the same sphere. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We timed it for Johanna’s Spring break, the first week of
April, which turned out to be a great time to go to Iceland. Although it was
cold, it’s wasn’t unbearably cold. And I had no idea how such a thin piece of
merino wool could keep me so warm! I also wanted to make sure that we caught
the Northern Lights season. We ended up with a great mix of winter activities
with relatively decent weather. Although it was indeed cold outside for this
California girl (a couple layers of tolerance for cold from growing up in
Philly had peeled off years ago), it wasn’t as cold as I thought it would be.
It was probably in the mid to high 30s Fahrenheit all week. And I actually
spent a lot of time sweating! Anywhere inside—stores, restaurants, even our
hotel room—it was broiling hot. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We arrived in Reykjavik around 6:00 a.m. after a red-eye
from DC on a plane named after Iceland’s most famous active volcano, Hekla.
Before going further, I want to emphasize that the difference between a good
flight and a bad flight is an emergency exit row. I always try to get one,
almost always successfully. Iceland Air was a great airline, and their staff
was super friendly and assigned me my preferred seat at no extra cost over the
phone. But I digress. We arrived the morning of April 1, which happened to be
Leah’s 40<sup>th</sup> birthday. It’s a 45-minute bus ride into the city from
the airport, and that was the perfect time to give Leah the birthday cupcake
from SuzieCakes that I brought with me. (I actually wanted to give it to her on
the plane and have the flight attendants sing, but that didn’t happen.) Thankfully,
when we arrived at the <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g189970-d207776-r367877349-Hotel_Holt-Reykjavik_Capital_Region.html" target="_blank">Holt Hotel</a>, our rooms were already available, so
we napped for a couple of hours after eating breakfast. My rule of thumb for
jetlag is this: If I arrive somewhere before 3 p.m., I sleep, but for no longer
than 3 hours. If I arrive after 3 p.m., I slog through until as late as
possible. The next day I’m almost always adjusted. This was no exception. The
hotel and the rooms were beautiful and filled with artwork from the owner’s
private collection.<o:p></o:p><br />
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After napping, we hit the town, walking along Laugavegur,
the main shopping street in the city, and around the old harbor. There are so
many puffin-related nick knacks to see. It was raining most of the day, but my
layers kept me surprisingly warm. I was very skeptical of such a thin piece of
merino wool keeping me warm, but it really did! There were so many murals all over the city. What was most interesting about the buildings to me was that doors were down a few steps. There was also some anti-EU sentiment, with EU membership a controversial topic among Icelanders. <o:p></o:p><br />
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We got our first glimpse into how beloved the puffin is in Iceland. Someone, presumably a child, left his poor little puffin sitting on a bench. We left him there in case his owner returned for him.<br />
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I always love to go into local grocery stores. Food is such a big part of culture, and it's always fun to get a glimpse into local culture in that way. Here, how can you resist drinking some moo!<br />
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It was fun to see the creative cafes and restaurants around town. The Laundromat Cafe is indeed a cafe, and has the city's only laundromat in the basement. And of course we were intrigued by the Lebowski Bar!<br />
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We made our way to <a href="https://www.fishandchips.is/" target="_blank">Icelandic Fish & Chips</a> for dinner to celebrate
Leah’s birthday, where Johanna, who arrived later that day, joined us. It was a
great dinner; I tried the tusk with roasted potatoes and mango salad with a
skyr-based mango dipping sauce. Fish is one of Iceland’s largest industries and
exports, so we were excited to try as much of it as possible. Even as a staple,
though, fish is just as expensive as all food in Iceland. More on that later.<o:p></o:p></div>
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On our first full day, we rented a large SUV and spent the day with
Steini, an old friend of Thea’s from grad school who is Icelandic. It was so
great to spend time with someone who could give us an insider’s “tour” and
perspective, but it was also great to make a new friend. Steini was so
knowledgeable about the history and politics of Iceland, so it was fun to chat
while we saw the highlights of the Golden Circle. On our way out of the city
initially, in an attempt to find a short cut we stumbled upon the main pipe
that brings hot water into Reykjavik. <o:p></o:p><br />
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Our first stop for the day was at <a href="http://www.thingvellir.is/english.aspx" target="_blank">Þingvellir National Park</a>, a UNESCO World
Heritage sight. The “Þ” is pronounced like a “th,” and the double L is
pronounced like a “tl.” So, it’s pronounced kind of like “thingvetleer.” (<a href="https://guidetoiceland.is/history-culture/the-difficult-icelandic-language" target="_blank">The Icelandic language is actually quite challenging!</a>) Þingvellir
includes the site of the world’s first parliament, called Alþing, which was
established in 930 and met until 1798. That was where people went to settle
disputes, where the country’s laws were read aloud once a year, and where
justice was rendered. In addition to the beautiful waterfalls, there is a
“drowning pool” where women were drowned as punishment for things such as being
romantically involved with the wrong person or breaking celibacy vows. Nearby,
men were burned at the stake. This is also the place where Iceland debated and
ultimately decided to adopt Christianity as their official religion (as opposed
to the usual imposition by force of the religion. Of course, the fact that the
Norwegian king threatened to kill Icelanders in Norway for refusing to accept Christianity
may have had something to do with it). The formal adoption only came with the understanding that Heathen
sacrifices and worshiping, as well as eating horsemeat, could continue secretly.</div>
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<i>Here’s Thea getting
ready to throw me into the drowning pool!<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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Þingvellir is also the place where the continental divide
occurs, where the North American and the European tectonic plates meet. The
plates move about 2 centimeters per year. The Silfra fissure is also here,
which is an underwater crack between continents and is supposed to have some of
the clearest water in the world. It’s also supposed to be fairly dangerous, so
we didn’t do that. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>One foot in North
America and one foot in Europe<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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From there, we went to see the famous geysers, Geysir and
Strokkur. Geysir doesn’t erupt very often—every few years—but Strokkur erupts
every 10 minutes or so. The walk to Strokkur was very cool, as the natural
thermal water in the area is about 110 degrees Celsius (230 degrees Fahrenheit)
and the steam comes off the ground in a surreal way in the -1 degree outside
temperature (about 30 degrees Fahrenheit). The sulfur smell from the thermal
spring was strong there, but I kind of liked it. <o:p></o:p><br />
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Across from the geysirs was a café where we had traditional lamb soup, which was very yummy. I was actually very impressed with all of the food we had, including food at rest stops and touristy stops. One of those rest stop restaurants had some good advice:<br />
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And another restaurant's restroom gave very clear instructions on its use:<br />
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From the geysirs we completed the Golden Circle at Gulfoss, the
waterfalls. With the winter starting to melt away, the several layers of falls
were beautiful. The pictures of the frozen falls in the winter, though, are
amazing. Those pictures alone make me want to go back in January. We also
learned that it was Steini’s first time there! I guess it’s easy to take things
like that for granted if you’re close.</div>
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<i>Despite the sign clearly indicating the danger of crossing and walking down the path, Thea and Johanna got a closer look at the falls at the bottom of the path. </i></div>
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<i>Photo courtesy of Johanna, from the vantage of the bottom of the path, which she dangerously went onto after crossing the sign saying to keep of. Rebel. </i></div>
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After the falls we headed to the "<a href="http://secretlagoon.is/" target="_blank">Secret Lagoon</a>," which was actually Gamla
Laugin in the town of Fludir. It’s more of a locals’ place and not very
touristy. The hot spring is about 40 degrees Celsius (104 Fahrenheit) and so
amazing. We were all wondering what it would be like to be in bathing suits
outside in 30 degree Fahrenheit weather, but the hot spring was so hot it felt
great to be outside! It was also really neat to see the steam coming up from
the spring, as well as the small boiling cauldrons of mini springs around it. Before
long we were all feeling very relaxed and very tired, and maybe a little light
headed from staying in the spring for so long. We found the restaurant that we
had been looking for for lunch, Café Mika, and had yummy and unique pizzas
there.<br />
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<img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtyFu0-Lw7s0cuQtBP5SpfkX2ttRdquogqzKhELTEzkH2vZ3mEo6faei8NDhO_9i7yWRA5quWXWSYL97-W9a62clEu8BepZ3aZ2t3SoPdxNY7JskdAayLtapAu_q_TFnVqGO1-Avop/s320/-DSC_0692.JPG" width="320" /> <img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2M0G_BiY4eP0-blR5ROV0dhLKEiN7wjAfT8lASGqCuruvDjSavVpr1RAMOjcO5OKBasaENyOOncYJrJ52eXacC8MJ9XBaS-Q9B0YhEKqn7NqrGIixud4fEJVruXgPNL9yXCxZ2wlK/s320/-DSC_0702.JPG" style="text-align: center;" width="320" /><br />
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By the time we finished and started heading back to Reykjavik, I was
thinking that the only way the day could get any better was to see the Northern
Lights. Sure enough, as I was looking out the window at a fuzzy gray cloud, the
cloud slowly started turning green and then stretched across the entire sky. We
were all eager to stop, but we had to find a safe place to pull over. There
have actually been several incidents of tourists stopping on the highway and
turning off their lights to see the aurora and getting killed! We found a spot
to stop, and I was kicking myself for not bringing my tripod with me that
morning. Johanna had her tripod, though. We waited a while but it didn’t seem
like the aurora was going to come back, so we decided to keep driving. Of
course, as soon as we were back on the highway the aurora came back. Again, it
started out like a hazy cloud and turned pale green to bright green and danced
across the sky. We were so excited, and poor Steini was trying to drive while
we freaked out. We couldn’t get many good pictures from the moving car,
although Johanna’s camera was able to catch a couple of blurry shots. It was so
incredible to see them! I was just sad that I didn’t get to photograph them. I
was looking forward to the Northern Lights tour that we had planned, but
unfortunately, the tour was cancelled every night for the rest of the week due
to cloud coverage. So I was not meant to photograph the aurora on this trip. <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">L</span>
But we did see them, and that’s something. A photographer friend had been there
a couple of months prior to our trip and took some amazing shots of the aurora.
Below is one that he took from Þingvellir. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCLeJ8PP2hr2jGdlcG8Ehw1Zo4kEKvCpNIyIVVnNVQhUil5Z_KicQ_HR5OMylKG_r8GsQxP8LDK8S-fuJhUGDTPNADbVOLs2aHxptXxpplZc7dVCfynCzy-RX44T0XfmvYeMVjpaQn/s1600/IMG_3161-justin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCLeJ8PP2hr2jGdlcG8Ehw1Zo4kEKvCpNIyIVVnNVQhUil5Z_KicQ_HR5OMylKG_r8GsQxP8LDK8S-fuJhUGDTPNADbVOLs2aHxptXxpplZc7dVCfynCzy-RX44T0XfmvYeMVjpaQn/s320/IMG_3161-justin.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>This photo was taken by Justin Davis, owner of <a href="http://fencelinemedia.com/" target="_blank">Fenceline Media Group</a></i></div>
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The next morning we went to the Blue Lagoon, which was the
touristy madhouse that we expected. The locker room and showers were so
crowded, and I saw firsthand why Icelanders
are so annoyed by foreigners who come and refuse to follow their customs
and rules. Iceland is a water culture; in addition to the hot springs and
lagoons, there are many public pools and hot pots (hot tubs). Icelanders go to
these pools nearly every day; the pools are a gathering place for communities.
There are very strict rules for maintaining cleanliness, including showing
before entering, similar to the Japanese onsens. The rules are very clearly
illustrated, yet people—Americans mostly—ignore them and just rinse off with
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The Blue Lagoon was nice once we figured out where the hot
spots where. The lagoon itself is massive. When you first enter, you go to the
mud mask “desk” where you get some mud for your face. We wandered around the
lagoon for a while trying to find places where it was hot rather than barely
warm. We finally found a good spot, and not coincidentally, it was across from
the bar. I made the mistake of having a drink, which I know isn’t good to do in
such hot water. We ate lunch at the lagoon and then headed back to the hotel
for a nap! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>I just adore this picture of Thea. :-)</i></div>
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After our much-needed naps, we went to Café Loki for
traditional Icelandic food. In addition to fish, Iceland is known for its local
lamb and its bread. The traditional Icelandic rye bread is steamed in a geyser
rather than baked. They also have a traditional flatbread, or “potbread,” which
is served with smoked meat or fish. This particular restaurant is known for its
rye bread ice cream, which sounds weird but is delicious! I also had the
sheep’s head “jam,” which was essentially head cheese, and mashed fish and
smoked trout on rye bread. Since our Northern Lights tour was cancelled, we
walked around town a bit more. One of the things I wanted to buy was a
traditional Icelandic sweater, and they are sold at many places, but many of
them are machine made rather than hand knitted (knitting is also apparently a
big thing in Iceland). We found a great shop that sold hand-knitted sweaters
kitted by a local knitting club. Each sweater has the name and age of the
person who knitted it. It was awesome! <o:p></o:p></div>
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The next day was our longest day, a 14-hour day trip to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%C3%B6kuls%C3%A1rl%C3%B3n" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Jökulsárlón</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span>Glacier Lagoon</a> on the south coast. On the way, we learned so much about Iceland and its
history, culture, and even geology. On the way out of Reykjavik, we saw Hellisheidi, the largest geothermal power plant in the world.<br />
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We passed rock formations from the last ice
age that were 2.5 million years old, as well Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Iceland, which covers 11 percent of
the country (did you know that thousands-years-old ice is stronger than steel?).<br />
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We saw several volcanos, including Eyjafjallajökull (which we practiced
saying dutifully until we got it: "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSo_ND41-6g" target="_blank">ay-ya fyat-la yookul</a>," the volcano that caused the
largest and longest shutdown of air space since WWII when it erupted in 2010. We
also saw a <a href="http://icelanderupts.is/en/sidur/preview-tour" target="_blank">documentary</a> about a farm that sits at the foot of the volcano and
how it survived, as well as the farm itself. We passed lava fields with lava
from the late 1700s. Interestingly, whenever lava flows, two years later moss
grows on the volcanic ash, so much of Iceland is covered in moss. We even
tasted some moss syrup, which was quite good. We experienced Iceland’s
desert, Skeidarasandur—the largest desert in Europe (in fact, Iceland’s polar
desert is the second largest in the world), and learned that Iceland has more
sheep than people.<br />
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On the way to Jökulsárlón
we also stopped at Skógafoss, a 62m high and 15m wide beautiful waterfall along
the Skógá River. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We finally arrived
at Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the early afternoon. It is the only glacier
lagoon in the world that connects to the sea, so glacier water and fresh water
combine via a small river and the lagoon never freezes over. Also because of
this, the lagoon has seals and fish. The lagoon was beautiful. It is 250 meters
deep and 90 percent of the ice is under the water. We were there at the end of
winter, so the weather hadn’t warmed quite enough for a lot of glacier “calves”
to be floating around, but the ones that were there were exquisite. The ice had
an incredible blue hue, and there were seals playing and arctic terns flying
around. It really was a beautiful, surreal place. <o:p></o:p></div>
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On the way back to
Reykjavik, we stopped at Reynisfjara black sand beach. There had been several
fatalities at the beach since the surf and undercurrents are very strong. The
tour guide, who was very dry and stern, warned us, “You must stay 40 meters
away from the water or you will die. That is a fact.” We did try hard to not bust
out laughing when looking at each other, but that phrase, “Or you will die.
That is a fact.” became the most used for the rest of our trip. It was a very
long and tiring day, but the lagoon was so beautiful I recommend it for anyone
going to Iceland. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Pretty sure we were 40 meters away from the surf because we didn't die</i></div>
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While we were in Jökulsárlón,
all hell was breaking lose in Reykjavik. Earlier that day, news broke about the
release of the <a href="https://panamapapers.icij.org/" target="_blank">Panama Papers</a>, and protesters gathered in Reykjavik
calling for a vote of no confidence and the resignation of the prime minister
and the finance minister because of their allegedly hiding money offshore
during the financial crisis of 2010. The next day, we had the opportunity to
join in the protests as we caught a march coming right toward us! We marched to
the headquarters of the progressive party, or the “hick” party, talking with
protesters the whole time. (With the Panama Papers scandal, the “hick” party
lost favor and the <a href="https://theintercept.com/2016/04/07/icelands-government-tries-cling-protesters-pirates-gates/" target="_blank">Pirate Party</a> gained steam. It’s also important to note the Iceland was the only country in
the world that indicted bankers, let its banks falter, rejected austerity, and
invested all of its resources on social welfare policies and the people of
Iceland. Because of that, Iceland is also the only country in the world to
achieve full economic recovery and not sacrifice its social foundation.) Funny
enough, when the protesters we talked to learned we were Americans, their anger
turned from their own country’s problems to fear for our country. They pleaded
with us to not allow Trump to be elected as president. I assured them that no
one is more fearful of that than we Americans! <o:p></o:p></div>
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That day was
probably my favorite of our trip. We slept in a little bit and spent some time
wandering around the Hallgrímskirkja church and the Leifur Eiríksson
statue in front. We happened to be there when a school field trip was there, so
we got to hear the massive pipe organ. We also took the elevator up to the
viewing tower to see expansive views of Reykjavik and the sea. <o:p></o:p></div>
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From there, we
walked along the water to see the Sun Voyager sculpture, which looks more like
a Viking ship but which I continued to call the “whale” sculpture. We continued
walking toward downtown, where we saw the statue of Ingólfur Arnarson, the
first settler in Iceland in 874, and the <a href="http://www.haestirettur.is/control/index?pid=333" target="_blank">Supreme Court </a>building. Interestingly,
we later learned that Arnarson was not, in fact, the first settler. Before
Arnarson, there were Vikings who came with Irish and Scottish slaves. The
Vikings decided to move on while the slaves stayed in Iceland. But because they
were slaves, they were not considered to be the founders of Iceland. <o:p></o:p><br />
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We then walked back across the city, which isn’t that big,
to the Tin Can Factory, a recently opened community center focused on teaching
Icelandic language and culture. The founders also run a program called “<a href="http://thetincanfactory.eu/meet-the-natives.html" target="_blank">Meet the Natives</a>,” a
three-hour Icelandic experience that includes traditional food and lessons in
the history, language, and culture of Iceland. We started with the
geyser-steamed rye bread with local butter (“there must be enough butter on there to
see teeth marks”) and house-pickled herring and sautéed dried local Angelica
herb and garlic. We also had local flatbread with smoked leg of lamb; lamb is a
very traditional Icelandic food. We each tried our hand at making crepes (which
they called “Icelandic pancakes”) using 80-year-old pancake pans, and we ate
them with cheese and smoked trout and with cheese and birch and moss syrups.
The highlight, though, was eating the sheep’s head. We tried the eye, ear,
tongue, and inner and outer cheeks. I had eaten sheep’s head before in Morocco,
and I remembered it being delicious. It was less greasy than I remembered it
being in Morocco. The other girls weren't as excited about the sheep's head. :-)<o:p></o:p><br />
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This was definitely one of my favorite parts of the whole
trip. We had a blast! We were the only ones in our group, and the woman running
it happened to be one of the founders of a local women’s movement group.
Needless to say, we had so much to chat about women in politics, and we were
there closer to four hours. Before we left, we all received certificates of
completion with our Icelandic names. In Iceland, there are no family names.
When a baby is born, he or she gets a first name and the last name is typically
the father’s first name with a “son” or “daughter” after it. Thus, if Jane and
Eric had a baby named James, the baby’s full name would be James Ericsson (son
of Eric). If they had a daughter named Ingrid, the baby’s full name would be
Ingrid Ericsdóttir (daughter of Eric). Occasionally and increasingly,
progressive-minded families name their babies after both partners, so James
would be James Janesson Ericsson and Ingrid would be Ingrid Janesdóttir
Ericsdóttir. There is also a national naming committee that oversees a national
registry of approved names and decides whether a new name that is not on the
registry is acceptable. If a name is acceptable but not already on the
registry, the parents pay a fee to have the name added. Because of this, the phone
books are listed by first name instead of last name. (All people are also
required to list an occupation for their phone book listing, which is not
verified in any way, so there are many “gnome catchers” and “elf guides,”
although a belief in elves is still pretty widespread among Icelanders).<o:p></o:p></div>
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And another reason to love the Tin Can Factory is that they know how to put on the toilet paper roll!<br />
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Later that day, after our protesting, we made our way to one
of the famous hot dog stands, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, where people like Bill
Clinton and Princess Diana ate hot dogs. Apparently, <a href="http://www.cntraveler.com/stories/2014-08-21/the-one-dish-to-eat-in-iceland" target="_blank">hot dogs are a thing in Iceland</a>! Who
knew! They’re not your traditional American hot dog, though. They’re made with Icelandic
lamb with a little pork and beef thrown in. They’re served with raw onions, and
fried onions (like the kind you’d find on a green bean casserole), ketchup,
sweet brown mustard, and a remoulade sauce. It reminded me of ordering a
cheesesteak in Philly—you order the hotdog “with or without” everything on it.
I have to say, it was the best damn hot dog I’ve ever eaten.<br />
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I’m pretty sure that the reason hot dogs are so popular is
because they’re the only thing affordable! The cost of food at
restaurants and cafes in Iceland is crazy high, even compared to San Francisco
prices. As one example, we found an “inexpensive” place for breakfast the
morning we arrived, and breakfast was about $25. Each.</div>
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With our Northern Lights tour cancelled again, we spent the evening
in the beautiful lounge of our hotel talking international politics with Steini.
It was such a great day that I didn’t want it to end!<o:p></o:p></div>
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With the high of the previous day still lingering, we spent
all of our energy hiking up the Sólheimajökull glacier, which is the glacier “tongue”
to the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap that covers the Katla volcano. To get there, we
duplicated the first half of our south coast tour from the trip to Jökulsárlón—even the same rest stops! But
this time we had a friendly and fun tour guide rather than a stern and blunt
one. When we got to the glacier, we geared up with our helmets and harnesses.
This was one of the things that I had been looking forward to the most (besides
photographing the Northern Lights. Blah.), so I was pumped. We hiked for about
15 or 20 minutes to the glacier tongue, where we put on our clampons. When
walking with clampons, you have to very consciously plant each foot into the
ice, so you’re forced to walk slowly. I was expecting very hard ice under our
feet, but it was more like loose, pebbly ice. We hiked in a single file to
ensure that we didn’t wander off into loose snow or sinkholes, stopping
frequently to take pictures and catch our breath. The views were breathtaking.
Like the Jökulsárlón lagoon, the ice was so clean and beautiful and had a blue
hue. But it wasn’t just the ice. The black of the volcano merged in and out of
the scenery, and the snow and ice were different shades. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo31KI45CdgJkdfyte5H2_aKl0_AOu3NG1w6LHxnEEHkouC7R3rFh0s5wZKW3iMImMGccXSs4a_U20N2qS80lz8Jqd7UZ3vwle_lB0iB0JixThgmQJyrb5HK188naZY3ZxZKkqW4AB/s1600/DSC_0449-ll.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo31KI45CdgJkdfyte5H2_aKl0_AOu3NG1w6LHxnEEHkouC7R3rFh0s5wZKW3iMImMGccXSs4a_U20N2qS80lz8Jqd7UZ3vwle_lB0iB0JixThgmQJyrb5HK188naZY3ZxZKkqW4AB/s320/DSC_0449-ll.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's a reason the ice forms circles like this, but I was too tired from hiking to remember what the reason is. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The last stretch was
really difficult for me. I have been so out of shape since having Izzie, and I
was worried about losing steam. Those fears came true when we were nearly at
the end of climbing. The entire group was at the top, and I felt like I just
couldn’t go on and wasn’t going to make it. The girls—my sisters—were there
beside me, encouraging me and pushing me forward. When I finally made it to the
top, I broke down sobbing! I was cold and sweaty and tired, and had been filled
with such mixed and overwhelming emotions, from feeling frustrated with myself
for being so out of shape to feeling so proud of myself for making it up there.
So I let it all out on the top of that glacier. I thought about it more later
and realized that my making it to the top of that glacier was symbolic for me. I felt
like the last year and a half of my life had been so low, full of postpartum
depression and sleep deprivation and all of the normal up and down emotions
that come with new motherhood, so getting to the top of that glacier was like
overcoming all of that to move into the next chapter of my life. Reflecting, I
realized that my thoughts up there were really about being a good mother and
partner and friend, and even being a better professional after slogging through
all of those roles over the prior 18 months. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The glacier is like
a living example of climate change. Like other glaciers around the world, this
one is shrinking by the day. About 20 years ago, the glacier covered the entire
area that we hiked just to get to the tongue; it shrinks an average of one
Olympic pool-length every year. Experts predict that the entire glacier tongue
will become a lake in the next few decades. When we got to the plateau, there
was a measuring device showing how much of the ice had melted, which is about
25 feet every 6 months! We could also see the moss and markings on the side of
the volcano showing how much the glacier had melted since 2000. There was also
a giant iceberg in the middle of the lake that had calved only 2 weeks prior,
and we passed a massive conical rock above us that had been the floor of the
glacier only 2 years ago. We also learned that when too much of the glacier
melts, the water has nowhere to go but underneath, which lifts the entire
glacier up and makes it dangerous to walk on.</div>
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On the way back to
Reykjavik, in addition to another stop at Skógafoss waterfall, we stopped at the
60m-high Seljalandsfoss waterfall, which is supposedly the only fall that you
can walk behind. I was way too tired to hike up there, so I waited behind while
the girls went up. While waiting, I got a beautiful rainbow sighting.</div>
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Also on the way back, we passed massive rocks that contained caves into which houses were built! There are local folklores about elves living in these caves. (Remember, Icelanders take the belief in elves very seriously.)<br />
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That night, with our
Northern Lights tour cancelled for the last time, we had dinner at the hotel
restaurant. It was supposed to be a high-end place with really great food.
Sadly, I thought that the food was way overpriced and just mediocre. I had the
local veal with tagliatelle and black truffles. The prices were definitely
indicative of Iceland, though: the tiny dessert that we shared was about $20!!
And it was so obviously frozen! But it was so much fun to spend our last night
together laughing and talking about our favorite parts of the trip. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Johanna had a very early flight the next morning, so the other four of us went to one of the many public pools and sat in one of the “hot pots”
outside. I can definitely see why the water culture is so popular! It was very
relaxing. I was sad to pack up and leave for the airport that afternoon. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Although I didn't get to photograph the Northern Lights, Iceland Air gave me one more opportunity to see them.<br />
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This trip to Iceland with my friends was exactly what I
needed to reset and refocus. I felt slightly guilty that Izzie had her first
case of hand, foot, and mouth disease with Matt at the same time, balanced with
gratitude that I wasn’t there for it. <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span> I’m so thankful for
the modern technology that let me see them and talk with them live. But most of
all, I’m thankful for such great friends—sisters—and the opportunity to share
this experience with them. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWQC" target="_blank">Link to all photos here</a>. I was pretty impressed with myself for editing about 1800 pictures down to about 360. </span></i><br />
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Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-11337549496138572592016-04-26T21:27:00.000-07:002016-04-26T21:28:30.093-07:00French Laundry for my 40th Birthday<div class="MsoNormal">
About 15 years ago, Chef Morimoto opened his restaurant in
Philadelphia. About 2 weeks after the opening, a large group of fellow foodie
friends and I went for the omakase. We had somewhere around 12 courses, which
are written down on a napkin I still have somewhere, and delicious drink concoctions. It was, to this day, the
best dining experience I had ever had. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The French Laundry may have topped that. The only thing I
wanted for my 40th birthday was a once-in-a-lifetime experience at The French
Laundry, which has been rated as “best restaurant in the world.” It took 3
months and mad phone skills to get the reservation (my birthday was January 2 and we went on March
12), but it was so worth the wait. The food, the champagne, and the wine were
incredible. Our meal lasted about three and a half hours. I was grateful
for the suggestion to go for lunch rather than dinner, especially since most
nights these days I’m falling asleep by 9.<br />
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The building itself is beautiful!</div>
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It was hard going through the tens of pages of wine, but we
ended up with a half bottle of Billecart-Salmon Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, which was
yummy (and of which I drank most myself. Yikes!). After that, I had a glass of Dehlinger Pinot Noir from Russian River.
That was also very good, very berry-y. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We started with an amuse bouche of creamy gougères and
salmon tartare cornets. I had made gougères in the past, but they have never
turned out like this! These were filled with a creamy cheese, too. The cones below the
salmon tartare were filled with crème fraiche. With that start, I was even more excited about what was to come.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We moved on to the famous “oysters and pearls,” Island Creek
oysters and white sturgeon caviar in the most amazing cream sauce. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Next was a Hudson Valley moulard duck foie gras terrine
served with 6 types of salts from Hawai'i, France, Montana, and Japan and the
most flaky, buttery roll that exists. After that, we got our first selection of
breads, which are served with salted and unsalted butters specially made for
the French Laundry. I had the pretzel and the French roll this time around.
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Our next course was a filet of Mediterranean John Dory
served with a black truffle emulsion sauce and thick, buttery, smooth mashed
potatoes. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFN9j2DD8EhSB61GbV__1dfr5hK8h0AzdH1LZAz8MbH7DDeSTmePlM662iii-wtwMpLTP3dvqTS28wRP7YK-uDxEYX__IP_WD_ZWViUHEtnikQEH_k5rYt93h8Dda6-fBF3h2MRMzn/s1600/20160312_134551.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFN9j2DD8EhSB61GbV__1dfr5hK8h0AzdH1LZAz8MbH7DDeSTmePlM662iii-wtwMpLTP3dvqTS28wRP7YK-uDxEYX__IP_WD_ZWViUHEtnikQEH_k5rYt93h8Dda6-fBF3h2MRMzn/s320/20160312_134551.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If that wasn’t enough seafood (and really, can you ever have
enough seafood?), we next had Maine sea scallops with roasted beets and
hazelnuts. (I forgot to take a picture of it before I dove into it. Oopsie.)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVHQSEsm-aYjC0BXyCHuYIsgQtOV8QHS8oMbYUgyyMVRMGxdPjMZb6rBNmgFw_-4Vkox5KXClrG6R4fmiOrVJL8DGnJwomxQcqy9WYtIWSEZub17TDeexFTKAl8WkitP75Vmopunz/s1600/IMG_20160312_140457282_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVHQSEsm-aYjC0BXyCHuYIsgQtOV8QHS8oMbYUgyyMVRMGxdPjMZb6rBNmgFw_-4Vkox5KXClrG6R4fmiOrVJL8DGnJwomxQcqy9WYtIWSEZub17TDeexFTKAl8WkitP75Vmopunz/s320/IMG_20160312_140457282_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next we had quail with Hobb's bacon, asparagus, watercres,
and “sauce charcutière” topped with quail egg. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimRwBqfp0ME-gJXxreSBO631WYFksFAy2AVgq7j79LFZV7ozzCXsEQ3ieLHbHBeyjDc_PyJBf9CQJoJFbu9lXnU_oFNWeaAtGzgorRdHDZ3x8KEIyDRoNPDeU3N-trNjE8CkDETGBW/s320/20160312_141826.jpg" width="180" /> <img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhivm_QNOFbnYiTcWUL50mUJmIUM3G0eIfT5aDD37I-JoeqEt4hDYfw8-ISVlG4LfMHY7lMx-Cp4M7kuw7D7X8K_J7CZvTZvZ0syVy_SqqhbZkuSAEVYrRZ3_EhN0TUJqMvDIxGPQVB/s320/20160312_141821.jpg" width="180" /></div>
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After that, we had Elysian Fields lamb with a garlic
jus that was poured on it tableside. It was served with a split pea croquette,
which wasn’t our favorite thing, and fava bean pesto with Meyer lemon puree. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWvtGnIyzH5xqekwOWqPsilJu7RLfsCdX8D5OnoQ-Gh6BKQp-glb4bViIxdq0X0af-3ALrqEg41t9nYlyWoSr8Wyv4tWAGIv6jK8qvDENWCUbjmt5SH7mSCqltnKShZFhEQPD2kGw5/s320/20160312_143523.jpg" width="180" /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3NL3fzw18z339dRSKPMQNV12PWkdKFDVeK3fCHfdb1RQB-U59NOEjFUPE0hyOf4SdS-0tl7bDYXRknU3oO0SdCsxi4qZSq1In5duIlcPczZPjItUm9MoxM2iP_nRnChAQK434Xeuu/s1600/20160312_143611.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3NL3fzw18z339dRSKPMQNV12PWkdKFDVeK3fCHfdb1RQB-U59NOEjFUPE0hyOf4SdS-0tl7bDYXRknU3oO0SdCsxi4qZSq1In5duIlcPczZPjItUm9MoxM2iP_nRnChAQK434Xeuu/s320/20160312_143611.jpg" width="180" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRtmpjWXfHHgTcd0vrzOGOuu2rg2Wtts5wInwO55iViaSG6dqQu3u3iXXUsa2hGKE7YMVCLzRFnbQPZKYGT7l6yUxWmhwLB1Nky-xTqXnBbzl_QP1ZmnwPzk5KMG3NXfNvS5MJhseK/s1600/20160312_141912.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRtmpjWXfHHgTcd0vrzOGOuu2rg2Wtts5wInwO55iViaSG6dqQu3u3iXXUsa2hGKE7YMVCLzRFnbQPZKYGT7l6yUxWmhwLB1Nky-xTqXnBbzl_QP1ZmnwPzk5KMG3NXfNvS5MJhseK/s320/20160312_141912.jpg" width="180" /></a> </div>
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Up next was one of my favorite courses of any meal: The
cheese course. We had Andante Dairy contralto with sour cherry paté
de fruit. According to <a href="http://cheesenotes.com/post/33227383385/this-red-rinded-beauty-is-contralto-cheese" target="_blank">Cheese Notes</a>, contralto is “a washed rind goat’s milk cheese with the
trademark orange-pink rind and creamy texture of a washed cheese; at the same
time, it is strikingly lacking in the strong aroma and pungency one would
expect from a washed rind, never mind one of the goat family. The delicate,
lightly eyed paste of this mild, creamy cheese has an herbaceous, milky flavor
with just a hint of goaty tang.” It was indeed creamy and mild and delicious.
It was served with a carrow seed roll, which wasn’t my favorite since I’m not a
huge fan of the taste of carrow seed. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF2WB7ixVI6Q_Wzv1vkyJQ1SurF74pKyI56xXSTSbUEwB6KHbu6tH-x034MpAOEct3LwNivGAzocd9_QPLA1JGTQPbUc0HKlAbI4a4fj3eyLaxQbLfJQNATtfGS9FgU3KvVs2xjet2/s320/20160312_144944.jpg" width="180" /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibbs49DyCCsm0SGq86-g5Vve1V7COK45eBGrDoxA30veljEFlsL08GbS1Js04BMhqNwHuIYCFq-qnR6w5NToNtgnITmk8BOHpmeAZqGze2BPUg8FAoB_AvA9zLxPc6E_DktRcAohHr/s1600/20160312_145025.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibbs49DyCCsm0SGq86-g5Vve1V7COK45eBGrDoxA30veljEFlsL08GbS1Js04BMhqNwHuIYCFq-qnR6w5NToNtgnITmk8BOHpmeAZqGze2BPUg8FAoB_AvA9zLxPc6E_DktRcAohHr/s320/20160312_145025.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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And to my next favorite course of any meal: Dessert. My
whole philosophy in life is that if you’re not having dessert, there’s no point
in even eating. And here we had desserts for days! It started with a birthday
cake, which was a type of mille feuille cake with alternating layers of vanilla, chocolate, and mocha creams and served with the best fresh vanilla gelato I've ever had. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfqv0bVcsqBPQAtpnl-YeC1_AgRdF-kbl7O9I71pMu-e360RmVQQnxHC7Tno8MMbylwN4g61VcoPEffly7eTFZxP8x-OT5BAvqpaJ9Dln_7coDiIN_nFiQolpG3APNnFGKrebs5VrW/s320/20160312_150537.jpg" width="320" /></div>
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We also had roasted banana ice cream, bruleed rhubarb with
almond meal souffle type of thing, "coffee" and donuts, the famous
French macarons, chocolate covered macademia nuts, and homemade truffles of
various flavors. I was a very happy girl. Very happy. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfi5iLfqtOfxmKSDnL6MdMHhmK1JXlZQSHRPH14v9WBPFaemzkdwTzyjl3IBneRiQJCU4Y1O_WeBCjax8RXDneyNvJoEmbFae5WmySWSggj6bcFKsQgW3XQ39Blcbu6Zbgq2s2uuZH/s320/20160312_150606.jpg" width="320" /> <img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvWZ7xhcxNsR7ng4s9vHHTy1EB0LSgV-x1Ausoe16LsXGE82AHQcFKoiB7kEhAlPg1_Htj5UFVvKttCTMv8h3CyIy0kM4gY0F70Dkugf7GrW2WFllALlhq6nKwdB-6Y1Bqx05xLkQX/s320/20160312_150547.jpg" width="320" /></div>
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQq89NFZtdlN0aweMcSLNY4nFB-_cPa7taZpURFegSccuz4w6ECFxb9UNAgrL8fEetf4C1RBJAUoJ6_0Yim3txBXVVOdHAVmvZb3r8xc0tvgm0Y50z1QiPDXfqwMgxVr5F-XpHmTqu/s320/20160312_151522.jpg" width="180" /> <img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2frcuXmaGpArP3512o7uNXGoAwQfGk91segisd3fZ6H6hXhShyphenhyphenERMaJSqziMNHfJ9ySfJx2u-qh7kH3McB_pl8A2irQhHwJ-kHQZmgTeDnXp-Sg6Tf5OwaqPeJr9myRajY_gn_IXf/s320/20160312_151758.jpg" width="180" /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgsCYpT-RPKdkXk2X3dkq3noB2_hZfL1PKvkFVHeGnIgZ1K7d73xwl7matPTEQaLJRJ6-ulDXozNNQGzMlk5ByVAoZsrS2N7nQwYbVaJQ_1UcjyQbXlpToTfCj7lYLk-0HNUndmF5_/s1600/IMG_20160312_150846422.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgsCYpT-RPKdkXk2X3dkq3noB2_hZfL1PKvkFVHeGnIgZ1K7d73xwl7matPTEQaLJRJ6-ulDXozNNQGzMlk5ByVAoZsrS2N7nQwYbVaJQ_1UcjyQbXlpToTfCj7lYLk-0HNUndmF5_/s320/IMG_20160312_150846422.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRESHVqduaQCx79knMwY5FT_AqZ0pEqmTZv5NGnq_uqPePBvPEwm5l6WpK1bfXsHc1m5rS5vOaoGfXwh2jXx_xjZRfw5-wWtwfoALxmkSsUiWiU3ysMeUOS1A-x91xxyk2QZTJbNta/s320/20160312_151637.jpg" width="320" /></div>
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We even got a little goodie bag with the leftover desserts
(I know, can you believe there were leftovers!) and some sugar cookies in
little imprinted tins for the road. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijyJ-M0HYBPakAYHZdF15h2KhFSelmSznRe3Fv0kgnr_wOMZI_T-aD6wyPYjm2zNiAgPlGqENCTlw0kouBeD0DJgvq7Nik-GkFEFfFC42egti7g2h-Jc4k7UYGSbFvyZSSuzAD39oo/s320/20160312_162334.jpg" width="320" /> <img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin-0WLsO8zuFfI8jEuLU0AkaRdxt0qic_N9_WgmyBeYEpbPBn3t8itl2FTxRJfneBzFIVujjRFjE-NZD9q7xzj_y-gy5aRLRNjYt_m66aC3nXIQx5B-ygfXX4w-jeUd1y8ZTpklfPt/s320/20160312_162325.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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After we were finished, we had a great conversation with our
lead server and were lucky enough to get a tour of the kitchen as well as the
design plans and construction of the new kitchen. In the kitchen there was a
live video stream of Per Se's kitchen in NYC, which also showed the live stream
of French Laundry’s kitchen in Per Se’s. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ-UJQf57LrALbhyphenhyphenZbZb7M0TDijfF7B4qBgQ3jfQFb5GQAIKOykoVUM_IJ-1zBYjuFz2YZ_e5n1hp0fkupILjCgJVtrzCC_lqtkjH-7CRG6FdLhjTh6KbLsQk_r5P2W43YUwq5jTjv/s320/20160312_155113.jpg" width="180" /> <img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuOWrH1hZ5VPJ6aUDKQcHqiszP7HmFTK8Ue-wqlbC_gA5Ed8-xt8fcRLuQM8boNAI3vWjBDqNIg2luCGM6SkGnjLUVd041sL7jUGOri_gD8NI1NJLnyhcx4nFJob2YGNWxPA_RTxPy/s320/20160312_155007.jpg" width="180" /> <img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbLMTeXmUWafTA1lsoaaNZT8ZR2Oh3OplyJj1O82OBhYQOTkw9GSR-xVvJDXhh0qJ_gjJ0UJrr_1oHf3vR92aHeYG7ZYHa-oDyApMkGvZZv-MXQWQUAm-MJndgKWo6SUvmw117-p7C/s320/IMG_20160312_154945250.jpg" width="180" /></div>
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<img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Q5hLnWzCIipxrl3sVZ3BHMEj3WiWrN07NkSdeGqDU6bEI_oUZKQpb6rXpLU4CNzbwvgfnsHIwCbHIN724ZxItf394mbL0aJhNNzSOS1LxwOAXmhy0UhkWzKQkXxDCna-fb7VgDl0/s320/20160312_154903.jpg" width="320" /> <img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQAgwDdufBB16SF49g5kv7nJZ-ovXoRoXU5ytY2YwtW7U37WB5UPuudAGu_dGa-JTnIG0fStKRwIkv3j3_tpaAxuHJq-VPKgzEKck9pyfugiRDxcIeTSy1hh8W5Wr_fIArwQ048A2a/s320/IMG_20160312_154930581.jpg" width="320" /></div>
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<img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgun5ePDRnM1UpLYPXOy2-KJdzTw1pUWZf6WAefaudg019ECs348HcQtKpAF8M1qoGSKn1IEEDp6Mw26AC9nbFb5MCt-mwbxCY7tNUVp9maFUmPqG7_jinFGMBEDEd_iQXcxPUTzqu2/s640/IMG_20160312_154817847.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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<div>
We also got a </div>
<div>
signed copy of our menu </div>
<div>
<span style="text-align: right;">from the chef.</span></div>
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<img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQNo3-SElAC2zwC7z5_d3LZ3-mUOGSOPipNnMzXhsvjJVvianEyRIarrXDTLEgsMF4jeAJ1qFOACBcUW7Wkf96ZfwtgxNolB_fMqjnUnFKGf4lkkQLvOwLkvQxK10hbqSUA9cXAjH/s640/20160312_194457.jpg" width="392" /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjflkaomgDNI14fHaLL9KZJI32Wl3ekF3gh8BrPVQtXHoGzZv_QSvhRUt05rMORSs2zFlkqRUzczyg7oEubFAzEpuPqnsXUydmvS1wSNRTY52Pzuj175sSWjh4IY0SKMhFba9A4XqNV/s1600/20160312_194457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>
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I was also impressed with the little details around the
restaurant, which was, in fact, a French steam laundry in the 1920s and is on
the national registry of historic places. Here are the light fixtures and one
of the several paintings depicting old laundries.<br />
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Before leaving, we of course signed the guest book. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIQJ6LpLynx7lugb8V4A_XelKo7JR7yvbLA9t238OVGs5AIl-IV4PLrRPoTAeUCp40dEiv42ShdSePjJQf0JYZxdIFN020SsFehXGk2GINlUEyQSdMQHIoVPPPB5cnEtMLcwOX2st/s320/20160312_155542.jpg" width="320" /> <img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB75EdtIeomZAwnVl_LCwntFVBMD24Etx18bgqWSaY7JEeBmGb07Q5j15KcvgsJM_qRXOJo8D9DGGGedxkMv3Evg5oIocxKVIf6GN-_IZ6n1iqrqgiB2aW0iQaBZJJ8lD3ScIxgFZY/s320/20160312_155637_001.jpg" width="320" /></div>
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It was pouring all afternoon, but by the time we finished the
rain had let up enough to walk around the restaurant's gardens across the
street, which included a bee hive and a chicken coop. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncmUYyuVpmUDxNSj_yFH_2-wxaiFefpB_EyiY0nFMtY9IDPGfOWqsjo2zzm6_vNh6cVX6IlVWiOkraJd9aEGP6FKDxNP0glWV0voZhjWHmGKlJp_vve2dpUmoK-s_mXPNbgQa8smn/s320/20160312_160827.jpg" width="320" /></o:p></div>
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<img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdNSUCIrXZEKQuHm_Qsl8Tmc2te5RCKgZYWmYwVEsBh2QYh2JkDdy3ilgJ2YruByw_kSscwHvuiLaB2e6clXRPFLRMiN5B6SGbaB6vtfeBeDQm2fcZBOKK9of3EF3cpdny67b1VnJe/s320/IMG_20160312_160410394.jpg" width="320" /> <img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-gafMgDeJIJH7-tfI8cEfbr7Os7cyW3z5SHUqu26NfI3vYZ2MFr6CVaOTeXwxqkHOiNn4tiP62oF9jR1g8SKEKsRSU1NFSnEoVCXcWfw-ISI9-nNX_3NJsXbkc226ucvsJXY_Hon/s320/20160312_161051.jpg" width="320" /></div>
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVIcNjXUHiM9iNIR6eyx8xh67NXAxYApwgz9I46qPHVqI950L2qSHFcYWgzVRuba0Wv0YCZmSuX0IyDmIWNHINokTIrrRXnmINW9a5RRmsA7f878EHatQaakFtlgZpoW3ukgGNCQNf/s320/20160312_160814.jpg" width="180" /> <img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoW_mJqG2ICiG7Zb8oEV7VAnP6iNteJlHdg8fT5JRJwoNPoU7pGLNiSeTcE45q3Mw42Pl09hI32xuyUw10sWA6A_EA1cfvoNU5suNeAXgIYy_ralppFsIqd4hMjtbMreJG7ddMPqhn/s320/20160312_160916.jpg" width="180" /> <img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjtdBXJE0jMOBRLEwTzJLkdTXo1k8_DASuCKRYNDWqohzoILo8OzGzk9r2ehbVDDffO_VZjRR9JBV-DowsgEMr4SZ7qmFzrT8MD4f7lUwzZgvqS-KDxPlz_i1ImiGkn-POIu4Z0Np4/s320/20160312_160727.jpg" width="180" /></div>
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<img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTLGQFaZHvHUdglBK7xNAOKD8mmUDgyXh99n1ClH9-hg3U_Z_JVlHLXaVbKfF_mRvdbicv5KSx0RReQBfmGGqMnRTUt4vxK5yKtu0dghURw0gT3DoIqJu9IPhaOB-lPAVR3McRnvCR/s320/20160312_160330.jpg" width="320" /></div>
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQQSEo6kspoELyZqPbNEkWAzrzNHEpTJhJbQJ5-BQjGjRWvRge_CeOJXohUZlICcETFrUaoWw7TkduNjkuktCV7Lqlz-BsF79b-ppXtwuBCqWokNENsI6YHAqzdR-9gOOL5_PI2flK/s320/20160312_160320.jpg" width="180" /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrNwlGjDRaGYp5n7HxSCM6kfzmj87UVoHJpsNuZBhaCnIeU4N6k0FyY8jtWHUl4UcbgnsCwMtUxtXocTPlbpnLF_o2ezr0BCMLATxHYIjVwZTu-RAjCTb-rcZVOTat0qyS4LEy20e-/s1600/IMG_20160312_160522598_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrNwlGjDRaGYp5n7HxSCM6kfzmj87UVoHJpsNuZBhaCnIeU4N6k0FyY8jtWHUl4UcbgnsCwMtUxtXocTPlbpnLF_o2ezr0BCMLATxHYIjVwZTu-RAjCTb-rcZVOTat0qyS4LEy20e-/s320/IMG_20160312_160522598_HDR.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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I topped it all off with a long soak in our Inn's hot tub. Not a bad
day. I'm so grateful for this experience and this day, and for having the most
amazing and generous husband and partner. I told him to start saving so we can
come back for my 50th birthday.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rVGnT4mksWELdZlXBv6w3kRUmwxaxJ3Qhl8zl34pdCaPJmRMIz1wU5QsLmt3_SJMe91mbpSnJIo6f8wygs9_uGGK1tMxGOW2VFCpZEyLel69zoQBTpnMFxljlXdd_DffSEKhV8In/s1600/20160312_163225.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rVGnT4mksWELdZlXBv6w3kRUmwxaxJ3Qhl8zl34pdCaPJmRMIz1wU5QsLmt3_SJMe91mbpSnJIo6f8wygs9_uGGK1tMxGOW2VFCpZEyLel69zoQBTpnMFxljlXdd_DffSEKhV8In/s320/20160312_163225.jpg" width="320" /></a></o:p></div>
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Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-81892824965490024232016-01-01T20:14:00.000-08:002016-01-01T20:14:18.616-08:00Thoughts on the eve of my 40th birthday (and 2016)<div class="MsoNormal">
As I reflect on the first 40 years of my life, I’m so
grateful for all of the opportunities that I’ve had and all of the people who
have pushed me to try all of the closed doors in the long, vast hallway I
wandered down aimlessly during my first 25 years. As I turn the page to the
next chapter, I can honestly say that I’m proud of what I’ve accomplished so
far. Twenty years ago, I never could have imagined in my wildest dreams that I
would be where I am.</div>
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I lived a lifetime in the first 25 years of my life. The
self-worth and esteem that I should have developed while growing up was
stifled, and I ended up, unsurprisingly, being financially and emotionally
dependent on other people. As sure as I knew that the sun would rise, I knew that
my life was going to be meaningless, that I would merely exist and do the
things that I thought I was supposed to do until I died. <o:p></o:p></div>
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And then I suddenly realized that it didn’t have to be like
that. Life didn’t have to be prescribed, and I didn’t have to stay in unhealthy
situations. I couldn’t be quite sure at that point, but I may be worth more
than that. It was early 2002 in Philly. The memories of commuter lots full of
cars whose owners would never return were still very fresh after 9/11. The news
was full of people talking about living for today and following your dreams. There
was no reason I couldn’t do the same.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As many people now know, I decided to leave Philadelphia for
California and start my life over, not unlike millions of others who came to
California before me. I found a graduate program that perfectly covered my
interests and spent eight days driving across the country to start my new life.
I was optimistic. I thought I might have some potential, and I was determined
to find out. I spent the next few years doing exactly that. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I had several amazing opportunities in rapid succession of
which I took full advantage. I met someone who seemed nice, and who was very
patient when I said that I wasn’t interested in a relationship because I was busy
focusing on myself. I took one of the best pieces of advice I’ve ever been
given when a friend suggested that I accept an internship that I was unsure of,
saying, “You may end up not liking it, but you’ll learn so much.” I went to
Mexico City to teach and do research. I reached out for an informational
interview for a job that was perfect for me. I followed another friend’s advice
to “have a look” at a program that helps women in politics. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Ultimately, of course, that “nice” someone—Matt—ended up
being the most incredible, supportive, loving, generous partner and father.
That internship ended up changing the course of my career and introducing me to
the world of policy and politics. That teaching gig in Mexico ended up teaching
me several lessons. That informational interview ended up giving me the edge to
getting the job in San Francisco (and finally getting me the hell out of
Fresno). That program that I looked into ended up being Emerge California, to
which I was accepted to the class of 2010. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I spent my late 20s and early 30s really learning about
myself—who I was, what my likes and dislikes were, what I wanted in life. I
spent my mid to late 30s implementing everything I had learned. All of that
learning helped me during the last 3 years, which have been among the most
amazing and fulfilling yet challenging years of my life. <o:p></o:p></div>
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In late 2011 I decided to run for San Francisco’s Community
College Board. Running for office is intense, and running for office in San
Francisco, whose politics is a special kind of crazy, is unlike anything that
one can imagine. I’ve <span style="color: #376092; mso-style-textfill-fill-alpha: 100.0%; mso-style-textfill-fill-color: #376092; mso-style-textfill-fill-colortransforms: lumm=75000; mso-style-textfill-fill-themecolor: accent1; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><a href="http://amybacharach.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-ultimate-adventure-part-1-running.html" target="_blank">blogged about that experience </a></span>before. While running, I was
planning my wedding back in Philly. I ended up losing that election in November
2012 by about 500 votes, but I was undeterred. In 2013, Matt and I had a
beautiful wedding in Fairmount Park and then set off for Europe for a few
weeks. By the end of 2013 I was pregnant. The pregnancy started out pretty easy—we
were travelling in South America at the end of my first trimester with no problems—but
the pregnancy became very hard, with several complications and trips to the
hospital. By summer of 2014, just before my due date, I had to decide whether I
was going to run for the Board again. I spoke with many people and received
great advice, and at the last minute waddled into the Department of Elections
and filed my papers to run again. The only way I was able to make it happen was
with the help and support of some of San Francisco’s most amazing women who
attended endorsement meetings on my behalf while I gave birth and tried to keep
my sanity with a newborn. I won that election, and have been so thrilled to
serve the college and the community. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Adjusting to motherhood was hard. Really hard. I learned
pretty quickly that I don’t do well on sleep deprivation. And I ignored signs
of postpartum depression, chalking it up to sheer exhaustion. By the time I
realized it, I was in pretty deep. That first year was so, so hard. Infancy
sucks. But now that The Bean is 16 months, we’re having a blast! I love watching
her take it all in and see her curiosity drive her. I love watching her learn
something new. I love hearing her say new words every day. I love seeing how
smart she is and how quickly she learns things and makes connections. I love
seeing her on the playground, cracking up when she goes down the slide
(although, strangely, she’s still terrified of the swing). She’s so funny, and
she brings so much to our family. She also makes me desperate to be a good
parent and to give her all of the love and stability and security that all kids
should have. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I realize that all of the things that I’ve been through in
my life helped shape who I am today and inform all of the decisions that I
make, good and bad. I know that I have baggage that I’m still trying to shed.
And I know that I’ll probably never get over certain things. But I live my life
the best that I can. And I truly believe that I am so, so lucky. I sometimes
pinch myself, wondering if this is really my life. I think about how helpless and
hopeless I felt throughout the first 25 years of my life, and I am so
incredibly grateful for the people who have pushed me to this point. I’ve had
so many amazing opportunities. I’ve traveled around the world. I’ve met world
leaders. I’m surrounded by some of the most amazing and inspiring women (and
men who love us) a society can have. Personally, I couldn’t ask for a more
supportive and loving group of friends and partner. Politically, I try to live
by the philosophy that leaders should want to “do” something rather than “be”
something. Professionally, I still have many goals, and hopefully the next
decade of my life will give me the courage to pursue them. <o:p></o:p></div>
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But in the meantime, on the eve of turning 40, I’m very
proud of my accomplishments so far. I’m looking forward to the next chapter. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-91274326622376062292014-03-31T18:12:00.000-07:002014-03-31T20:56:45.483-07:00South America: Colombia, Argentina, & Uruguay<br />
<i>Links to Shutterfly galleries of all pictures below.</i><br />
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footer"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="page number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Desperate for some travel and knowing that it could be our
last hoorah for a while, we debated between sticking with our schedule of
alternating travel and vacation and going to Hawai’i or deviating and going
somewhere exploratory. We were going to visit family on the East coast right
after Christmas, so we wanted somewhere that would be somewhat easy to travel
to from the East coast but to return to the West coast. We settled on
exploratory, and South America, partly because it was a new continent for both
of us. There were so many places on the continent where we both wanted to see,
but Argentina has always been high on Matt’s list, so that’s where we planned.
When we realized that it would be slightly cheaper (and man, is travel to South
America expensive!!!) to actually spend a few days in Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á</span>
rather than just connect, we figured, “why not?” And of course, we couldn’t be
in Buenos Aires without taking advantage of the proximity to Uruguay, so we
spent a day in Colonia. <br />
<a name='more'></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We started out with a great Virgin America flight to DC
(hello, emergency exit row with empty middle seat and Law & Order marathon
on satellite TV), and I was so excited to see my nephew and meet my newest
niece. Of course, packing lightly for multiple destinations with multiple climates
is challenging, so I was happy that it wasn’t unbearably cold in the DC area. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a less-great flight on Avianca from DC to Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á</span>,
we were excited to explore a new place. The altitude caused me to be a little
winded during the first day or two, but Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á</span> really is a cool
city. Our first full day was New Year’s Eve Day, and nearly everything was
closed both that day and the next, New Year’s Day. But we found that the
gondola up to the top of Monserrate was open, so we went there. We had a great
day for it, and the views of all of Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á</span> were beautiful! The
sky was perfectly blue with puffy white clouds, which made for amazing pictures
of the 17<sup>th</sup> century church at the top of the mountain. Behind the
church there was an alley full of little tourist shops and food stalls, and we
were able to pick up some coca tea and some traditional nosh. We also met a
couple of new friends, who we hung out with that day and again a couple of days
later. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFdfMs_WFuOpxEojUhCJSdRbX_YUJGdTgCR88_Ce2QmFpHYCmtBvWVMxajkO41Y0h9iH22McsA5tioVbpAqPpMly0mSFnitDDH6NV2MWcVz8xRoKLlgyZAC8kqNyiu0axvZve2HRL/s1600/1-IMG_0137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFdfMs_WFuOpxEojUhCJSdRbX_YUJGdTgCR88_Ce2QmFpHYCmtBvWVMxajkO41Y0h9iH22McsA5tioVbpAqPpMly0mSFnitDDH6NV2MWcVz8xRoKLlgyZAC8kqNyiu0axvZve2HRL/s1600/1-IMG_0137.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCvsuQixrybFUdMsXc7I7iIMhdpxlNKhk3s8_Egz2idQfY7pwvV2arZ11PXskZTd_z3OAFaREuBFSt4Y90kmcPYS9rCxsMt9aqgHqLR5hN_ePDnC8ipC7SJqYKFWHboM3QC68LZ8l/s1600/1-IMG_0205.JPG" height="150" width="200" /> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKL9kqFUit0S_PN5HiBQMJnLpGawgM_iUOEAz0-wGyIfon0NpF5a3_3FXpRfJtrf8mxmkgUEF8qGNl-nkWA1KDR-H6KWIwOGW9XR-L5Uu4ftaDa9ynW5eUNMISuYdr30eOnUFoeOY3/s1600/1-IMG_0264.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we got down from Monserrate, we took a taxi to Old
Town/Candelaria area and just wandered around. It was pretty quiet since most
people were getting ready to celebrate New Year’s Eve. We lucked out in finding
the Museo de la Indepencia/Casa del Florero open, and really enjoyed learning
more about the history of Colombia’s independence. The museum houses not only
the country’s declaration of independence from Spain, but also the remains of
the famous broken vase that started the war of independence. Of special
interest to me, the museum also has an exhibit about women’s role in the fight
for independence and the importance of women in the process. </div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13IEdpsy7tA9b7nm-VsgjY10fRG09XFXZA5_BhBa_QrGbnavMrXoctm7jPTgjOt24VZT-l4vqr7e1sCi3vJ3ZObQBTNZAkMLCuZDC0vpGmfePKFrgCa3szd5QsYqc2PzwcC0XlokQ/s1600/1-IMG_0302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13IEdpsy7tA9b7nm-VsgjY10fRG09XFXZA5_BhBa_QrGbnavMrXoctm7jPTgjOt24VZT-l4vqr7e1sCi3vJ3ZObQBTNZAkMLCuZDC0vpGmfePKFrgCa3szd5QsYqc2PzwcC0XlokQ/s1600/1-IMG_0302.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaA645_iKqr3BMer8Gd7hqJ0KeLiD49u2ZHmJ350V2j3-3uQibVx9RIu5iq9q6oOOie7Fdl7Had2LWNaWoaDGyasOiCt5pCUC1iRw_hN1Vd-bwV9Spl7ekYa-fBEYFqTWTEbrQ8xym/s1600/1-IMG_0304.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After finding a place that wasn’t overpriced for the holiday
for dinner at Parque 93, we went back to the hotel to watch the ball drop in NY
on TV. In keeping with tradition, I fell asleep around 11:40.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Since nearly everything was closed on New Year’s Day, we
went to the Cementerio Central, which holds the remains of national heroes,
past presidents, poets, journalists, and revolutionaries. One of the graves we
were interested in finding was that of Leo Kopp, the founder of the Bavarian
Beer Company in the 1880s—the first of its kind in Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á</span>. Kopp also created
social insurance and built housing near his plant for his workers and was generally
known for his generosity and willingness to help people. Today, people come to
his grave every day to clean it, water the flowers, and whisper their dreams
and wishes in his statue’s ear. Another notable grave was that of Luis Gal<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">án
Sarmiento, a journalist-turned-presidential candidate who was assassinated in
1989 by the drug cartels, partly because he supported an extradition treaty
with the U.S.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I really enjoy cemeteries; there’s something about the calm
and quiet of them that I find really peaceful. And many of them are beautiful,
although I’ve yet to find one that compares to Paris’s P<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">è</span>re Lachaise. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-FbiHW_ovEllT_I9GE0vWqxZA-PW1mmoaerhfuLcvgk4AS_YrV3N4zgqZ-kQIA0AoDJHB8RuroYThO3_9x5vDHwWMLZZkVVa-WIzcS9ylLK6oWGTNHVXcddlguTg1SZq1OYOhDlj/s1600/1-IMG_0519.JPG" height="320" width="240" /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJwUipdZPjUWy0LyoUXTzNz9B-rq2Ij9eHn343zfCRtZiU-QYZqS15EIjvzYj6t7FFXRNnHe4Idyvfi0DjKsprthagMmCOcej0SSI9rS-9XvPVzkk0lOu1U4PTgiAk0K7BZKjjyNFs/s1600/1-IMG_0554.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJwUipdZPjUWy0LyoUXTzNz9B-rq2Ij9eHn343zfCRtZiU-QYZqS15EIjvzYj6t7FFXRNnHe4Idyvfi0DjKsprthagMmCOcej0SSI9rS-9XvPVzkk0lOu1U4PTgiAk0K7BZKjjyNFs/s1600/1-IMG_0554.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghzDdqsKbBkXlryiAEVarhgYuNiI2opW9ayI1HZ3weuZ39mcmK2SnYhP7SJ_72nRT6JlzBkuh9J28L-BX59RESxJrbeuTjUBzA2JIW08rD5ieSo7_ceq52fdw2kJN2q6YH87EUcpKK/s1600/1-IMG_0459.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujZOT9U0SqJfuGE9hhBxYpZZ3iWMgCd4_JZXBOqcfFoqL6bOhKXe3qHdm_lHqO-zIztd8jnV3pbqe__5YSBhe0lW30xg_A5VSK8hUFt1ceq_TRcs16JRCwldZ5tCZQ7aXc_JWUlf6/s1600/1-IMG_0552.JPG" height="240" width="320" /> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghzDdqsKbBkXlryiAEVarhgYuNiI2opW9ayI1HZ3weuZ39mcmK2SnYhP7SJ_72nRT6JlzBkuh9J28L-BX59RESxJrbeuTjUBzA2JIW08rD5ieSo7_ceq52fdw2kJN2q6YH87EUcpKK/s1600/1-IMG_0459.JPG" height="240" width="320" /> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
We ended up walking quite a way toward the National Museum,
which was closed, as was everything else. The National Park was jumping with a
festival, though, and all of the elotes—grilled corn on the cob with
chili—smelled and looked so good!
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXdS-LcCoz3GB_yEO41hu3piTqZyaGMPfl5KufUAwIupivSeUbCNTiGkVhh1Gb-6jbbkNV4Y-uoUMkU9iw53DEXaVoCoc3F7QKxRDXGL940bqD5D824HOiIjEMj0ZNTZmzcwOlZ4LD/s1600/1-IMG_0717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXdS-LcCoz3GB_yEO41hu3piTqZyaGMPfl5KufUAwIupivSeUbCNTiGkVhh1Gb-6jbbkNV4Y-uoUMkU9iw53DEXaVoCoc3F7QKxRDXGL940bqD5D824HOiIjEMj0ZNTZmzcwOlZ4LD/s1600/1-IMG_0717.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
For dinner that night, on a recommendation, we went to Andr<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">é</span>s
Carne de Res. It was touristy and a bit cheesy, but fun. The food was
OK—definitely not worth the price. With my birthday the next day, one of the
roaming bands came over and sang some birthday music and crowned me. Even
though we took a regulated taxi back to the hotel, it didn’t have a meter and
we got severely ripped off. I knew it at the time and told the driver that it seemed like too much, but didn't have the energy to argue that much in Spanish. We figured that when travelling in developing
countries we’re always bound to get ripped off once, so we chalked that up to
being our one time and moved on quickly. </div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFpmd1HaCKqzWmdzp5YCdmAL71J7hDJ9rKmTA57M2xTpINXGW-aUrmFn-sSvRmiyb_dYEz9UjtdY6tcpi7W8TnBiCc9Zo-zqeHRndxUoJbIB6MBRr7N3lagnt5WL05eDLGlgXVGl5/s1600/1-IMG_0786.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFpmd1HaCKqzWmdzp5YCdmAL71J7hDJ9rKmTA57M2xTpINXGW-aUrmFn-sSvRmiyb_dYEz9UjtdY6tcpi7W8TnBiCc9Zo-zqeHRndxUoJbIB6MBRr7N3lagnt5WL05eDLGlgXVGl5/s1600/1-IMG_0786.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUQ5Y9Cq2wWm5TsglcnFrPmaLJ-AEvunrt7Ig3GkfyJVmwH6y_NLEQk8VAq7a6VlgfoTerY1l2PeqqrMz6EHU7vWH19FGAWNWcKJNuVL83II4aPblTQYmmxMguadGSWitezEdk7Ooz/s1600/1-IMG_0794.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOcZhtiahVoLdAaS_nLRD6_lYRuEJ73D4poHLWvSH6YQEpE-4HHrlThwsi4n2kUSkKAA1-KG5FOdUSyk0GuOcHP1zroqPkFzuhHss7PcSdGzM0siQPgsjShjqzGmzyxfaMAPkFYK9/s1600/1-IMG_0802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOcZhtiahVoLdAaS_nLRD6_lYRuEJ73D4poHLWvSH6YQEpE-4HHrlThwsi4n2kUSkKAA1-KG5FOdUSyk0GuOcHP1zroqPkFzuhHss7PcSdGzM0siQPgsjShjqzGmzyxfaMAPkFYK9/s1600/1-IMG_0802.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For my birthday, we went to the Museo del Oro. It provided a
great description of the history of gold and copper mining in the area and had
some really interesting pieces, although many of them started to look the same
to me after a while. We met up with our new friends who we met at Monserrate at
the museum, and afterwards found a restaurant nearby for lunch and,
importantly, an ice-cream and crepe place across the street. For the
rest of the day we just wandered around the Centro area, seeing the
Presidential Palace and Congress and taking our pictures with the guards. We
ended up back near the Plaza de Bolivar and Museo de la Indepencia, and there
was SO much activity in the streets compared to the other day when Matt and I
were there before. Even with all of the hordes of people, we felt safe since
public and private police were everywhere. </div>
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq44dh_ILjRk1yZ_EVkFTYfmZXg9d5epl5QkBM36j08Jz8F_Ga0WXVCLIkG2ACE0WuBOW_t5LSwCk5G2DB5cjeqKmltHw3m-qiK_uh23JxxJ3pWueyGs3MTS_QM4k8hABz9Cb9SIn0/s1600/1-IMG_0998.JPG" height="240" width="320" /> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivy4SYK3RPVLGSkKzV9WJYKolH-exp8RuNIEB00Io6BLrnoUZc89bbOphqP7AJuNCdlJmrVOi6e4K_WEU4IzOB4ws26Hulp9VdsiFynAlBe3F284PO7NxrH5LwJlmYbTfGLe5nNZqO/s1600/1-IMG_1305.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></div>
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Some people thought we were crazy for going to Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á</span>,
thinking that it was still the Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á</span> of the 80s with bullets flying down
every street. But it’s definitely cleaned up a bit since then. There are, of
course, still safety issues to consider, as there are in any big city, but we
felt safe the entire time. Having lived in Mexico City, I was conscious of not
hailing taxis on the street and being extra cautious with flashy jewelry and
accessories (I bring a simpler, plainer wedding ring when I travel, but here I
didn’t wear jewelry at all). We also bought a small point-and-shoot camera that
fit into a pocket for this trip, rather than carrying around our massive DSLR
cameras. And rather than carry a purse or backpack, I wore a Scottevest vest,
which has about 40 discreet pockets on the inside. The city seemed pretty run
down, even in the “nicer” areas. And although I wasn’t drawn to it like I’ve
been to other cities around the world, I’m glad we went, and I ended up
enjoying it a bit more than I did Buenos Aires, which was our next stop. </div>
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Our flight from Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á</span> to Buenos Aires was delayed for quite
a while, and I wasn’t a big fan of the Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á</span> airport. And
although the Aerolineas Argentinas planes are about as old as I am, at least
the flight attendants speak English as well as Spanish and allow English
speakers to sit in the emergency exit rows, unlike Avianca. It took almost 2
hours to taxi the runway, get off of the plane, and got our luggage in Buenos
Aires. And then it was another 30-minute wait for a taxi to our hotel, which
was another 30 minutes away. So by the time we checked in we were pretty wiped. <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">We did have some entertainment at the airport,
though: Colombian football (soccer) player </span>Teó Gutiérrez arrived at the same time we did and there were quite a few people waiting to greet him!<br />
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The next day we did a graffiti/street art tour, which gave an interesting
perspective of the city’s and country’s political history. There was a bit of discussion
and disagreement about the acceptability of tagging, with our [very young] tour
guide thinking that it was OK and just a form of art training and everyone else
thinking it was inconsiderate and criminal to tag private property. We learned
that street art is also used as a means of communicating. As one example, we
saw a number of similar sayings and artwork along a certain route and learned
that it was done by a father who lost custody of his children and used street
art to leave them messages along their school route. The tour ended in Palermo
and we spent the rest of the day wandering around that neighborhood.</div>
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The next day we went to Recoleta to see the cemetery where
Eva Per<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">ó</span>n, Jos<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">é</span> Paz (founder of La Prensa newspaper),
and other politicians, Nobel prize winners, journalists, and the granddaughter
of Napoleon are buried. It was a beautiful place, although it was so hot
out—about 97 degrees—that it was hard to enjoy walking around. We stayed as
long as we could handle the heat. </div>
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From the cemetery we took a taxi to Plaza San Martin and saw
the Malvinas (Falklands) War memorial and clock tower. After wandering around
that area for a bit, we took the subway back to San Telmo and saw the building
that was once the Austro-Hungarian embassy during World War I. It now houses a
Starbucks. :-/ In the same area were the “blocks of enlightenment” where women
and intellectuals gathered. That night, we went to a tango show at Piazzola
Tango. The food was OK, but the dancing and music were amazing. One of the men
who played the bandone<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">ó</span>n was my favorite. He put his whole
body into the instrument and you can see his passion and the music in his face.
I wish we were allowed to take pictures during the show! </div>
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Matt got a bit of food poisoning so we spent most of the
next day just relaxing in the hotel. That night, though, we went back to
Palermo to go to “The Argentine Experience,” which was a lot of fun! It was
recommended by a friend who had been to BA about 6 months prior. The
“experience” was set up so that about 30 people from all over the world got
together to mingle, drink local wines, make our own empanadas, eat perfect
Argentinian steak, and make our own alfajores and drink mate. It was a lot of
fun! Of course, I was very sad to have to pass on the unlimited Malbec. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span></span></div>
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We spent the following day at a traditional (um,
traditionally touristy) gaucho ranch about 90 minutes outside of BA at Estancia
Santa Susana. We were greeted with a drink (juice for me!) and a freshly made empanada,
which was extra yummy based on my levels of hunger by the time we arrived. It
had been raining earlier and we were able to wander around the estancia in a
nice break in the rain. There were various things to do, including visiting a little museum,
riding in a carriage around the grounds, horseback riding, or just sitting on a
bench and taking in the site. We rode horses around for a bit, and got caught
in a thunderstorm we were riding. It was actually a cool experience, although I
was a little worried about my camera, which was hanging around my neck, getting
too wet. We were able to see all of the grills where all of the various kinds
of local meat was cooking, and went to lunch after the ride. The food was OK—some
better than others. The blood sausage was a bit chalky and the chorizos were
too grisly for me, but the two different types of steak were very good. I
passed on the chicken. They put on a little show that included tango dancers
and boleadoras and singers, which was a bit cheesy but fun. Finally, the
gauchos rounded up the horses and put on a show, showing off their precision
training with small rings and targets. It was pretty cool to watch!</div>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
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We saw lots of other really cool things in BA, including the
Casa Rosada, the presidential palace and where Eva Perón gave her famous speech
from the front balcony facing Plaza de Mayo. Also in the Plaza de Mayo we
witnessed the weekly march of the Asociación Madres de Plaza de Mayo, now
elderly women whose children—mostly sons—disappeared during the country’s “dirty
war” under dictatorship. The women have been marching weekly since 1977!! For
many years, there were not allowed to speak, especially about anyone who was “disappeared,”
so they have their children’s names embroidered on their headscarves and they
carry large pictures of them during the march. It was a very moving scene.We also checked out a few antique shops where we came across Nazi-era <span class="st">Deutsche</span> marks (Argentina was a common destination for Nazis after the war)! </div>
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYAnjBWv7e7SOxh-pRkqYOwC0bcy_xTI9Gfqiaf9aH5TtnFTn8DOVbjmXE90p3ULw5CAgBIG5jl39QOwOOCZjDqhAcUI97nhyphenhyphenSii_O9IfG2XQnP1b732rhZ-3vk5mBrjWte9T9od10/s1600/IMG_4217.JPG" height="320" width="240" /> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHimlwwiS70ekNCSSBTO7B5iUOLqnfPy5DSqp1Pi6dn2AYeJ4Z90nd5m2Eiy0aMKUr1vtLgr2AA4tf8znZ_SLy-c5PirkgtAOEJOEN5h4cqof1G8Crs83evSnxyTBGd2cdhtV1Mvr1/s1600/1-IMG_4220.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></div>
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<br /></div>
And then, of course, there was all the amazing and interesting food!<br />
<br />
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDnI6UzhabDd8FaWAgnlk3-BLkocwIEGi3xsJbloejQ7XBw0TSB7XmCi5xUeVecw9o-X1PMtl9_sJX_V0AfMiFCW0HFohTwbXRK1gpuY4ZdSFBc_lSe83gLIpjTotxsj3Ayf3e2gke/s1600/1-DSC_0432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDnI6UzhabDd8FaWAgnlk3-BLkocwIEGi3xsJbloejQ7XBw0TSB7XmCi5xUeVecw9o-X1PMtl9_sJX_V0AfMiFCW0HFohTwbXRK1gpuY4ZdSFBc_lSe83gLIpjTotxsj3Ayf3e2gke/s1600/1-DSC_0432.JPG" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Mmmm. Cow tongue </i></div>
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnRTyNz1E4EyEu4XRklysGhjZCAWBWgPYwPSBi31baTdIpmlTSNKIkEtBdrqjhESGJHImJtgaN5gs4j-tQUuraA4yKq4P-JX-pNS6ein4xUBYkL8YFV6Evrhl2ewZf2mcuWkfgQIa/s1600/1-IMG_4032.JPG" height="320" width="240" /> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7gzIg_a-M23zPH_UVDfPqdQBB548Vo9yqlylu6v6yjcQYPfp6pP8joOgLfxx56gSziLFBeBv1elUt7LE6GgdzrIbb1fRFmSuqbuGLw2ZPs3dZfUG9zvrcMqRp310L8kGdJjyMkgbf/s1600/DSC_0436.JPG" height="320" width="212" /></div>
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<i> I feel smarter already!</i></div>
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhunKKMRMuwUbAjnIhHRdVQ6hj21KqAC0htFwsNq6ZTaoJ4KNrxWxFuGTsA_KHElVYsrpOCPBcF6ZstPw1sh_7HQ6Vv9wfJmPQ9PU8mJ258YKaVtbmuaWg4K2gCLRb22kB-pVWZAfyy/s1600/1-IMG_4020.JPG" height="320" width="240" /> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidg-E395xFlpXtjA1v0tH0NaC497Gy39emlTFsP9lIMktwcelXf4MpAGADvWaaHj2BgXCYU3vJu_U39_ZZuBm0oXCM2yCO9Wp_DTlEM3bLhXRortymXczY231kJUM4agH2o6aidEMr/s1600/DSC_0459.JPG" height="320" width="212" /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<i> Largest avocados I've ever seen!</i> <i> Fresh</i> <i>alfajores I brought back</i></div>
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<br />
I think I enjoyed Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á a little more than I did
Buenos Aires. I had heard so much about BA—how it’s the “Paris of the South”
and how amazing it is—and I didn’t feel like it lived up to the hype. Certain
places just grab me while other places I’m glad I went but don’t feel the need
to go again. Mexico City was one place where I immediately thought, “I want to
live in this amazing place,” and thankfully got the opportunity to do so. The
entire country of South Africa will now forever be a part of my soul. Morocco
will always be one of my favorite travel sites. And, of course, Paris is the
only place on earth where I truly feel at home. But BA didn’t really do a lot
for me. It was a neat city, and in retrospect I would have preferred to stay in
Palermo than San Telmo, or maybe divided our time between the two areas. </span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">There were some things about BA that were
interesting. The traffic lights go from red to yellow to green (rather than
from green to yellow to red in all other countries I’ve been to). I still don’t
understand that. BA also doesn’t have a very good street sign system, so we
could walk for blocks and blocks before seeing a street sign and being able to
check the map to see where we were. </span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Before we left, we took a quick ferry over to Colonia
del Sacramento, Uruguay. I had read mixed reviews about it, with some saying it
was too sleepy a town and not much to see. But this turned out to be one of our
favorite days of the trip. The pace is far slower in Colonia than in BA, and
the town is small enough to really enjoy by wandering around the cobblestone
streets for the day. We wished we had scheduled more than a day there as it was
a nice break from the cities. </span></div>
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUFn4zMkhbu0SCLus2M7BnwGceCpq5qZZJpGRaRTtbpzOEyjSeL9d96mnFLtJc-N_LnwDGFMXoWAAVf3Mgbx2qQ-Vs7MzHLcEsF56SNDsu9QY6PhyF5IhvhTk7Lt5bwNkeYnLBKpl7/s1600/1-IMG_3506.JPG" height="320" width="240" /> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJ9v6B7afm94gxZAYwRccsW9mCSl3DaG2MBgCM4wSdLTLPFshAEVjx05WG2_QN-WIa3qNH75qweq8XWooCHE29sLyb1DG8hatyAkv1GCIlCCGAPJALl-vcvMKyf2hDnnpb2gbG4kt/s1600/1-DSC_0338.JPG" height="320" width="212" /></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Overall, it was an exhausting but great trip. There are a
lot of other areas of Argentina that I’d like to see, such as Bariloche and Iguassu
Falls, and, of course, Patagonia (preferably on my way to Antarctica). And
there are lots of other parts of South America I’d like to see, such as the Elqui
Valley in Chile and Machu Picchu in Peru. At this point, I think it will be a
while before we can swing another big trip. Unless I can convince Matt to move
overseas….:-)<br />
<br />
Pictures from Bogot<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">á: <a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/album.sfly?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWHL&startIndex=0&fid=873e50d96376d5f2">http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/album.sfly?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWHL&startIndex=0&fid=873e50d96376d5f2</a></span><br />
<br />
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Pictures from Buenos Aires: <a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/album.sfly?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWHa&startIndex=0&fid=997f66b22ee7de15">http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/album.sfly?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWHa&startIndex=0&fid=997f66b22ee7de15</a></span><br />
<br />
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Pictures from Colonia: <a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/album.sfly?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWIE&startIndex=0&fid=989bbbf26b53df7e">http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/album.sfly?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWIE&startIndex=0&fid=989bbbf26b53df7e</a></span><br />
<br /></div>
Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-15236182769983219972013-07-08T22:30:00.001-07:002013-07-12T17:26:42.689-07:00Honeymooning in Europe: Austria, Czech Rep., Croatia, & Montenegro<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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It took us quite a while to decide where to go for our
honeymoon. We typically like to alternate trips between “vacation” (e.g., lying
on a beach somewhere) and travel (exploring a new country and culture), after
which we usually need a vacation. We had gone to our beloved Hawai’i in
November after the election to wind down from the roller coaster of running for
office, so travel was next up. We debated for a while about going back to SE
Asia (and stopping in China to see a friend), going to Argentina (which would
have been a 5th continent for both of us) or Australia, or even deviating from
our vacation-travel schedule and going to somewhere like Tahiti. We wanted to
take advantage of the fact that we would be on the East coast, and Matt had
never been to Europe and always talked about wanting to see Austria, so we
ultimately decided on Austria. I had always wanted to go to Croatia, so we
combined the two. We initially thought about adding in Capri somewhere, but
quickly realized that with only 2 weeks it wouldn’t work. We scheduled a flight
to Salzburg, train to Vienna, day trip to Prague, flight to Dubrovnik, and day
trip to Montenegro. We had the option to go to Budapest, but we only had time
for either there or Prague, and since Matt is Czech, it was an easy choice. It
was a great trip, but by the time the wedding was over, I was thinking how nice
it would have been to just sit on a beach. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">:-)</span></span></div>
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<a name='more'></a><br /></div>
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Since we would be in Philly for about a week prior to
leaving, we had to pack for both trips. Thankfully, the climate would be
similar (it sucks having to pack for multiple trips with multiple climates),
although we couldn’t get detailed forecasts that far out. We assumed that
Salzburg would be a little cooler and then each place would be progressively
warmer. We were wrong! Salzburg ended up being beautifully warm and sunny and
the rest of the trip was a little cooler. In Vienna and Prague it was mostly
rainy and cool, and on an island off of Dubrovnik it was downright cold at
times! As an aside, we’re hugely thankful for friends who brought a suitcase
and a lot of our stuff back to San Francisco after the wedding so we only had
to take one suitcase to Europe. As another aside, I had almost forgotten how
easy it was to pack for Europe! Our last few trips have been to developing
countries in SE Asia, N. Africa, and Southern Africa, so packing was pretty
detailed. It’s been so long since I’d been to Europe (sad face), and packing
was a breeze!</div>
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Salzburg, which ended up being my surprisingly favorite city
of the trip, was beautiful. It is a very small city and is easily navigable and
walkable. We stayed just across the bridge from the City Center, only a block
away from the famous <a href="http://www.austria.info/us/vacation-in-austria/mirabell-castle-1614408.html" target="_blank"><u>Mirabell Gardens</u></a> where some scenes from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Sound of Music </i>were shot. Interestingly
enough, most Americans who come to Salzburg come to take the Sound of Music
tour and love quoting the movie and singing the songs. What’s funny is that
most Austrians don’t even know the movie! </div>
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Our hotel was very nice, and the
breakfast included a tea bar with tons of loose-leaf teas from the local
mountains as well as local and fresh food and breads. Walking around our neighborhood was interesting, and there were lots
of remembrances of the past almost everywhere we looked. In front of some
buildings were small gold plaques in the ground, some having one and some
having many. Each plaque represented a person from that house who was sent to a
Nazi concentration camp and had the person’s name, date of birth, date of
deportation, and the name of the camp. There were about a dozen plaques in front
of a large bank that must have been an apartment building at that time. It was
a sobering reminder of where we were standing. There are really reminders
everywhere, including a memorial at the end of one of the bridges dedicated to
those who were forced to build the bridge. </div>
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<img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyyLG1KzSPao3jUdPgU91jaVIqvM9q65F6hVKlBWyl5k_enpRRrrDeXj3_jKc0Hqr6_0NgF9iNHgU8VwLMTG1L68gF25JexcBLVYAG-FvilNH_K1cLC88_gz_3EfBaaneR5MfyrXLI/s320/DSC_0486.JPG" width="320" /> <img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq-vEviX8g0hZe4jSwkedvwXvNDA9hjFr89OPToYmZfr7bDzEtF4jqoPYDdr1q5grZg4XTPpyFg4eH9whYJG5hj8H81kzLCe6spBzVBmYHsoU_YMXOrYIrdOWVfL70AYne4LIJm5jt/s320/DSC_0889.JPG" width="320" /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></b></div>
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On our first day in Salzburg we went to the 11th century <a href="http://www.salzburg-burgen.at/en/" target="_blank"><u>FortressHohensalzburg</u></a>, taking the funicular car up the side of the mountain. The
views from the Fortress were incredible, and the rooms were really interesting.
There was also a puppet museum, which, interestingly, isn’t far from the old
torture chamber. In the old chapel, next to the foundation of the original
floor and walls, there was a fascinating video playing that showed what the
Fortress looked like over the course of thousands of years. </div>
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<img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBlBZ9dGIzQOH5o0SnuNQjR0yD3MWyoGRSRZscJmLbiMd7BEVOegwMQ4_xtc-ZpJ1lt7URWcmwifLURX391sFo-CtgytD67JNwE4RroE_VKwnG85pq3_d4DfLznAPxDLjOb82QlkvZ/s200/DSC_1009.JPG" width="200" /> <img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06wAtXWfOG9u-VHrO6eNys-1pukN5MsdfW0NAHskPWE_5TufA3ruB1V41JKvg_kOr4JdYOu2NFFRUiVnrY-EtYf_JkoFZ_f0b73M-md9iduUEuMkaMSU3Z80JnnV_TizHhB9gFgci/s200/DSC_0251.JPG" width="200" /> <img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZiIB97lOjQyDOH1953rbpsbgoRamhW_MLU_6XqKRPgvC5J3Iy851lf4WovbG4ZGlyRjOYCN3c9cJ-bm0n2Ny9HNJOzZ5Myz7qSZ0O9uO_K83TQtVNWhLSTQJMFlPiLjIRyYHnMZkx/s200/DSC_0569.JPG" width="200" /></div>
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<img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKuN8HS-A5BFhwqw4XyoMNXgU_GvEeMW3_x5oJyhXn0WcSONCPRfqCWrjSmoUQQpQHURXSeBWurnv5pyL-iFJNAUxqIbALhNc5kkpHQdPQNu19ShIwt9L6vSfc3G5rqXc8Q8ehsTjK/s200/DSC_0265.JPG" width="132" /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1KzSRldqvota8AvDw-XxSl4b4PPqZvLuvmmWRQU4SaCGjHFFI9B1HfopAXB4iddYf-Ud0Xat6l_OIHlLfmCuHSHdA4ib53_vmLOKqmSpFpyQuILlJ37eBIdFXZKjhN5vpYzUOKzTt/s1600/DSC_0584.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1KzSRldqvota8AvDw-XxSl4b4PPqZvLuvmmWRQU4SaCGjHFFI9B1HfopAXB4iddYf-Ud0Xat6l_OIHlLfmCuHSHdA4ib53_vmLOKqmSpFpyQuILlJ37eBIdFXZKjhN5vpYzUOKzTt/s200/DSC_0584.JPG" width="133" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4cXGE4pVI20afAho6NTqGUMIIAZOH_dHAgiFaaLO8jNCIQMHrGoRXYcSnpsUP57sELR5E5ObthFMYVqwX2d63mj2IRPM8ENW27r9TScpnTkIFUOyQ9PJxCVB8IG2mS9k1khlZv1f/s1600/DSC_0779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4cXGE4pVI20afAho6NTqGUMIIAZOH_dHAgiFaaLO8jNCIQMHrGoRXYcSnpsUP57sELR5E5ObthFMYVqwX2d63mj2IRPM8ENW27r9TScpnTkIFUOyQ9PJxCVB8IG2mS9k1khlZv1f/s200/DSC_0779.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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After finally coming down to the main square, we wandered
around the shops and open-air market stalls and headed toward <a href="http://www.mozarteum.at/en/museums/mozarts-birthplace.html" target="_blank"><u>Mozart’s birthhouse</u></a>. There we saw one of his violins as well as other instruments that
he and his sister played. There was also a lot of information about Salzburg,
Ausria, and greater Europe from that era. Of course, we couldn’t leave the area
without getting Mozart Balls from each of the “original” bakeries that make
them and comparing. Mozart Balls, or Mozartkugel, are little pieces of
pistachio marzipan surrounded by nougat and then dipped in a thick layer of
dark chocolate. I preferred the ones at Schatz makes, although the ones at F<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">ü</span>rst
weren’t bad! We definitely stockpiled some Mozart Balls for the rest of the
trip and for gifts. </div>
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One of the notable parts of Salzburg are the beautiful
bridges that cross the Salzach River. We walked across a couple of them, and
one is dotted with hundreds of “love locks,” or small padlocks with initials.
Of course, we bought ourselves a love lock, put our initials and wedding date
on it, and locked our memory to the bridge with the others. We each kept a key.
My key replaced my half of the “love knot” that I bought for each of us at
Kyoto’s Kiyomizu, or “Love,” temple, which was in my wallet when it was stolen
on my bus home from work. </div>
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There are several beautiful areas in close proximity to
Salzburg. One afternoon we went to <u>Berchtesgaden</u>, which is most
infamously known for Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest, which, unfortunately, didn’t open
for the season until a few days after we left. Berchtesgaden is a beautiful
mountain village and also has a working, 500-year-old salt mine—the
Saltzbergwerk. We toured the mine, which included “slides” down various levels
of the mine. It was a little Disneyfied for me, but interesting nonetheless. </div>
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We also took a tour to the lakes region of the area where we
took a boat ride along Lake Wolfgang and wandered around the village of <a href="st.wolfganghttp://www.stwolfgang.at/index.php?lang=en" target="_blank"><u>St.Wolfgang</u></a>. It was a very pretty area and reminded me a bit of Lake Tahoe.
Except among the Alps. :-) <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span></span></div>
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Back in Salzburg, we went to the <a href="http://www.augustinerbier.at/?id=5&L=1" target="_blank"><u>Augustinian Beer Garden</u></a>,
a 17th century monastery brewery with beer being brewed the same way today as
it was in 1621. The building itself is beautiful, with sunlit staircases and
large, high-ceiling, dark wood rooms. And the beer garden in the back is
massive, with about 1500 seats. On two levels there are also food stalls to get
snacks and sandwiches and pastries. We just got a pretzel (not as good as those
in Philly, by the way) and a beer. To get your Augustiner Märzen, you grab a
small or large stein from a shelf, rinse it in a large, circular fountain, and
have someone from the monastery fill your stein from an oak barrel. There are
also beer warmers, which are filled with warm water so that people can warm
their beers to an appropriate temperature. Of course, I’m not much of a beer
drinker, but I did manage to drink about half of my stein. I was much happier
at the 17th century restaurant across the street where we had more traditional
Austrian food and a Radler. </div>
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Speaking of food, we ate a lot of it! I love to eat
traditional and local food wherever I travel, and since I rarely eat so heavy
(or even much meat), the Austrian food was a quite a shock to my system.
Although it was really good! Throughout the entire trip in Austria (and Prague)
we ate tons of tasty pork products and goulash and dumplings. And, of course,
strudels and Sacher tortes.</div>
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We had several really great meals of traditional Austrian
food and beer while in Vienna. I’ve never drunk so much beer with every meal!
But when it’s cheaper than water, I go with the flow. We also went to the
famous Sacher Hotel to have a Sacher Torte and tea. The original recipe for the
Sacher Torte is a state secret, but I’m working on replicating it at home for a
“Bachar(ach)” Torte. </div>
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From Salzburg we took the train to Vienna. Matt and I both
love train travel, and I’m really looking forward to the day when the U.S.
invests in high-speed rail in the same way that other countries around the
world do. But I digress. Our hotel in Vienna was in the 2nd district, just
across the Danube Canal from the Old City. It was a beautiful 400-year-old
hotel with lots of dark wood and traditional Viennese furniture to resemble a
past era. </div>
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We spent most of our time in Vienna at the touristy areas.
We spend half a day at <a href="http://www.schoenbrunn.at/en.html" target="_blank"><u>Schönbrunn Palace</u></a>, which I enjoyed more than I
thought I would. I’m guessing it was because it was an audio tour and we had to
go with the flow through 40 rooms—no extra waiting. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">:-)</span></span> Schönbrunn is the
former imperial palace where many in the Hapsburg dynasty lived. The palace has
very beautiful and ornate rooms (including the room where Mozart played for
Empress Maria Theresa), and in some of the rooms used for entertaining they had
Mozart’s music playing. You could almost see the Hapsburgs and their guests
dancing on the ornate floors to the music. The gardens are equally elaborate
and beautiful. I can easily imagine the royal family in the 17th and 18th
centuries strolling around their grounds with umbrellas to shelter them from
the sun (unlike us, who strolled with our umbrellas to keep us dry). </div>
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We had lunch at the lovely Gulaschmuseum, which isn’t a
museum at all, but has dozens of goulashes on the menu. We also meandered
around the Hofburg Palace area, seeing one of its museums and the horse
stables. From there we went to the 12th century Stephansdom (St. Stephen’s
Church), whose spire dominates the skyline. Inside, there was special lighting
to make the beautiful and colorful stained glass reflect on the entire room. I
don’t think it’s any secret that I have a lot of disgust with and very little
respect for the Catholic Church as an entity, but that certainly doesn’t take
anything away from the physical beauty of some of the oldest churches. And the
bells sound magical, except, of course, when they start ringing near our room
at 7:30 a.m. and don’t stop. Apparently, Stephansdom was saved during WWII only
because a Captain disregarded orders to fire shells on it and leave it in ashes
when German forces were retreating. </div>
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We spent some time in Judenplatz, which was the place where
Jews began to settle around 1150. After the pogrom in 1421, it became a Jewish
ghetto. On the square there is a large memorial that lists all of the
concentration camps where Jews were sent. Just off the square there is a small
museum with an archeological site of the first synagogue, which was burned in
1421 with many of the residents. From there, we walked to the main Jewish
Museum, which is in a different area of the city. It had some interesting
permanent exhibits, and we saw an interesting special exhibit on Jewish humor
throughout the ages. I personally thought that the Jewish Museum in Cape Town
was much better. </div>
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One of the highlights for me was a visit to Kapuzinerkirche
(The Capuchin Church), which houses the imperial crypt with five centuries of
Hapsburgs. The caskets were beautifully ornate and elaborate, and some of the
most recent caskets were from within the last few years. The caskets included
those of Maria Theresa and Francix Stephen, the parents of Marie Antoinette; Emperor
Maximilian of Mexico; and Marie Louise, Napoleon's wife. Their son was also
buried here, but his body was moved to Paris by Hitler. The highlight, of
course, were the caskets of Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth.</div>
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We also want to the Pratter and rode on the famous Ferris
wheel. The views of the city were beautiful. The Pratter was interesting—most
of the rides there were American with American names and American themes such
as the Wild West. </div>
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From Vienna, we went to Prague just for a day. I had been to
Prague quite a few years ago and didn’t really have a desire to return, but
Matt is Czech, so he really wanted to go. Prague is unarguably a beautiful city
with amazing architecture, but it’s also overly crowded with throngs of
tourists—so much so that it’s difficult to even walk. It also has a very
post-Communist vibe, in my opinion. My impression from my first trip there,
during which we didn’t stay in the city and we had local, day-to-day
experiences, was that the people are very cold and distrustful. It wasn’t a
good vibe. On this trip, we just saw the top tourist spots, so it was a totally
different feel. But it was still crowded. It was raining off and on, and with
not only so many people, but so many people with umbrellas, it was difficult to
take it all in. If you’ve ever tried navigating your way across the Charles
Bridge on a good day, just imagine trying to do it with umbrellas! I did get my
goulash and dumplings before we left, though! </div>
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We kept a pretty fast pace on the trip and I was definitely
ready for some down time. And I was ready for some warmer weather! Vienna was
mostly cold, rainy, and windy, and I really realized then that San Francisco is
about the coldest climate I could handle anymore. In fact, a few years ago I
was on a short list for a job at the UN in Vienna. As wonderful an opportunity
that may have been, at that cold moment I was thankful I wasn’t living there. As
a tourist, I was also disappointed that everything was closed on Sunday. I mean
EVERYTHING. I’m sure as a resident I would find it quaint and old-school and
something that should be valued, but as a tourist with limited time, I just
found it inconvenient. </div>
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I had studied in France as an undergraduate and used it as a
base to travel the region. For some reason, Vienna didn’t really call out to me
like other European cities have, particularly Paris. In Paris, I feel at home.
There’s still a lot to see in Vienna, but I don’t have the same feeling as I do
in Paris. In fact, I left with the feeling that Europe is a much better place
to live than visit. </div>
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From Vienna we flew down to Dubrovnik. What a difference! It
was beautiful and sunny and warm, well, warmer than it was in Vienna anyway.
Our hotel was on the side of a cliff, so the street level was floor 7 and the
elevator descended to get to room levels. At the bottom there was a bar in a cave
that was discovered when they built the hotel. The bar opened up to a platform
along the sea. Since it was our honeymoon, the hotel had put a giant white bow
on our door and left us champagne and a personal note—such a nice touch! </div>
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We took the cable car up to the top of the Srd Hill, with
great views of the walled old city with its orange roof tops and church
steeples and the Adriatic. Also there is the Imperial fortress, which was used
during the homeland war in the 1990s. The Homeland War Museum was an incredibly
moving experience. The museum is in the fortress and is the place where
Croatian defenders ended the war and where the Croatian flag (rather than the
Serbian flag) continues to fly since the war ended only 20 years ago. Since the
war was so relatively recent, there is modern-day news footage. One room in the
museum showed clips of news footage over the course of the war and how locals
were impacted with the shelling and its aftermath. I couldn’t imagine living in
such horror. With my work in the area of human trafficking, I’m familiar with
the Serbs’ use of rape as a weapon of war against the Bosnians and Croats, but
to see the faces of the people impacted by the war is something else. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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After taking the cable car back down we entered the walls
into the old city. It reminded me a little bit of Marrakech or Fes with its old
medina, but much more navigable (no twisty, maze-like streets). It was quite
beautiful with lots of opportunities for great shots. We went to a Bosnian
restaurant for lunch, which was really good! But I was most excited about the
local Adriatic squid, which I think I had for almost every meal after that. We
also ate a lot of gelato! I’ve never been to Italy, but I can’t imagine there
bring more gelato places than I’ve seen in Austria and Croatia! </div>
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We enjoyed our gelato at the Onofrio fountain, a cistern for
the city built in 1311. It was pretty amazing to sit in a spot where millions
have sat for so many hundreds of years. We then climbed up to the top of the
wall to walk the wall around the city. The views were incredible. At one point
I stood and watched what seemed like hundreds of birds flying around a church
when its bells started ringing. It was as if the birds were keeping time with
each ring and it was so enchanting. Around another corner we saw a man pulling
in his laundry, which was hanging on long ropes that crisscrossed a courtyard.
The wall was also tiring! There were lots of hills and steps going around,
which definitely worked off my gelato. We also bought some local treats from some
women on the wall, a fig and honey roll and candied orange peel. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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There were a few things that I would have liked to see but
they were closed by the time we got to them. One of the Franciscan monasteries
housed one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe. There was also an exhibit of war
photography that closed early. </div>
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We also spent a day on the island of Lopud, which was a
sleepy town since we were just shy of the “on” season. Unfortunately, the day
we were there it was a bit cold and rainy, but it did dry up enough to walk
around a bit. We were told that there was a great beach just a short walk to
the other side of the island. That short walk was a 40-minute trek uphill and
then down steep steps through some forest. Because of the weather, everything
was shut down and deserted!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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We took a day trip through Montenegro next door the next
day. We began in Kotor, which was a very traditional and quaint old city. After
some meandering and shopping we started an ascent up a mountain through 26
hairpin switchbacks to the highlands. On a couple of occasions a very large bus
was coming down the mountain and they had to back up curvy roads until there
was room for us to pass. The drive was beautiful and the views of Kotor Bay
were awesome. When we got up to the highlands the temperature had cooled and we
got to try locally made prosciutto and sheep’s cheese, as well as some local
honey wine. I really wanted to bring some home, but they only sold it by the
liter, which would definitely put me over my weight limit for my luggage. </div>
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On our way back we stopped in Budva, a high-end, casino-like
area on the beach. It was quite a sight to see an ancient walled city with
modern, high-end luxury shops. After a drink at the beach bar, we were back on
the road to cross the border. </div>
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One thing that surprised us was the cost of everything. I
had assumed that because Croatia wasn’t yet on the euro it would be more
affordable than the rest of Europe. But the prices were crazy expensive—like
San Francisco expensive or even more. And because Dubrovnik is such a touristy
area (the local population is only 60,000), they nickel and dime everywhere.
Restaurants have a table setting charge or a cover charge for bread, for
example. </div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Overall it was a wonderful but whirlwind trip! As usual, I’m
ready for a vacation after our travels. <a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="_GoBack"></a></div>
Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-3914453331750155592013-07-02T22:47:00.000-07:002013-07-16T14:11:29.739-07:00The Ultimate Adventure, Part 2: Getting Hitched<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
After nine years together, Matt and I decided to get
married. Well, we had decided to get married before, but life happened, I
decided to run for office, etc., etc. So this time we were really going to get married.
And we were going to do it in Philadelphia, where I’m from. You would think
that perhaps we’re a little crazy trying to plan a wedding from across the
country. And while I’m running for office in San Francisco. And you probably
wouldn’t be wrong. But it was actually easier than we anticipated. It only really
required one trip to Philly to look at venues before deciding. We deliberately
selected a venue that was all-inclusive (ceremony, food, bar, centerpieces) so
we would just have to show up, and we were able to talk to most potential
vendors via Skype or phone. We did schedule another trip about 4 months before
the wedding, during which time we met with a florist and officiate and did our <a href="http://diamondstreetfilms.com/philadelphia-wedding-photographers-amy-and-matt/" target="_blank">engagement photo shoot</a> (included in our photography package) and our food and cake
tastings. Considering how organized we were in the process, the planning went
pretty smoothly.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<a name='more'></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I live much of my life by color-coded spreadsheets and
calendars. And wedding planning was no different. I had one master spreadsheet
with color-coded detailed tabs for things like</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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</span></span></span>Budget and to-do lists; </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Due dates; </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Guest list (further sorted by local and
out-of-town guests—those who would get an out-of-town gift bag); </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Out-of-town gift bag contents (and when and
where to purchase them); </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Bridal party gifts (and when and where to
purchase them); </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Information for rehearsal dinner, including
transportation configurations; </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Seating; </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Decorations list, including what, how much,
where and when ordered, and to where shipped (some things I shipped to us in
San Francisco, others I shipped to my dad’s in the Philly area); </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Task list for rehearsal and rehearsal dinner
(what to bring, who brings what, logistics, etc.); </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Task list for day-of, including a point person
for gratuities (all in separate, labeled envelopes) and a point person for
things such as gathering cards and gifts at the end of the night and collecting
all personal items; </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Timelines in 15-minute increments for day before
and day of wedding; </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Potential vendors for each specific service,
including name, contact information, price, notes, and specifics about the
agreement with whichever one we chose (e.g., hair, make-up, dj, photographer,
transportation, officiate);</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Various traditions we thought about including
(highlighting the ones that were ultimately included);</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Music list (songs to include and
do-not-play-under-any-circumstances);</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Photography list (specific family configurations
or other shots we wanted to have); </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Hotel block information; and</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Honeymoon options</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It sounds complicated, but being obsessive-compulsive about
organization is a survival method for me and ultimately makes my busy life much
easier. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The travel part ended up being a little more complicated and
not without some bumps. For starters, I left for the airport without my dress!
For all of my organization skills, this was a huge “oops” moment. We scheduled
a shuttle to the airport and got about 10 minutes away when I realized I didn’t
have my dress (which was still hanging in the back in the guest room while the
rest of our luggage was by the front door). The driver refused to go back
because of his schedule, so I jumped out and took the bus home to get my dress
and call a taxi. I’m usually annoyed that we’re always the first to be picked
up and the last to be dropped off, but it worked in our favor in this case.
Because we were the first to be picked up, we were still in the city and I
could easily get on the bus. Had we been the last to be picked up, we would
have been on the freeway to the airport and I would have had to get a taxi back
home and then back to the airport. So, $70 later, I arrived at the airport only
about 5 minutes after Matt. Our plane didn’t have a closet (silly United) so I
lay the dress flat in the overhead (sorry to hog the space, fellow travelers).
It worked out fine since I was going to have it steamed in Philly anyway. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we arrived, we got a minivan since we would be doing
some shuttling for the rehearsal (for the record, I was reminded why I will
never own a minivan). We were fine for the first day and a half, and then on
the way to my hair trial we got a flat tire! I must have run over something
serious in a construction zone because the tire was completely flat and ripped
on the side. My hair gal actually came and picked me up while Matt waited for
AAA to tow it to a nearby rental place to exchange the vehicle. Our trial went
quickly enough (or AAA took long enough) that she dropped me back off at the
vehicle when we were done. Now THAT is customer service! </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The rest of the prewedding days went fairly smoothly,
although we had a lot to do. One of our guests was staying at a hotel about an
hour away, so we drove out there to drop off the out-of-town guest bag, which
took some time. But that area had a lot of the stores we needed to go to (and
parking—thanks, suburbs!!), so it worked out well. In fact, one of our bumps
was helped here. I had realized that a couple of pages of the escort cards that
I designed were missing. Since I saved a master copy after spending hours upon
hours perfecting the alignment on the cards, I figured we could just pop into
an Office Max and buy more cards and print out the missing pages. That would
have worked well, except that Office Max’s printers were configured in a way
that wouldn’t align the Word doc to the template. Again, customer service was
great! The guy at the print center spent two hours with us trying to align
everything so it was perfect. We finally got it (even after a power outage in
the area). </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSbPQkFYqMt4xz4XfPyN28s19gIAHy6y1DWNGBmIHbvThPNHHAMYvnEiv5qwHYlX310Vk1LhZ4-ntXBT8NNj3gI7B618am0xDVKfcOmRQiUifBslagSq6pDsjiBM45Ty9-WDxTe7ZH/s900/amymatt-169-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSbPQkFYqMt4xz4XfPyN28s19gIAHy6y1DWNGBmIHbvThPNHHAMYvnEiv5qwHYlX310Vk1LhZ4-ntXBT8NNj3gI7B618am0xDVKfcOmRQiUifBslagSq6pDsjiBM45Ty9-WDxTe7ZH/s320/amymatt-169-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next day, the day of our rehearsal, was pretty hectic,
but also fun. We had stayed at a budget hotel near the airport for the free
parking, and on the morning of the rehearsal we were going to check in to the
Old City hotel where most of our guests were staying. Around 2:30 a.m., our
room at the budget hotel began to stink like cigarette and marijuana smoke. It
was so bad that Matt started to have an allergic reaction. We were able to go
to an unoccupied room around the corner and get a few hours of sleep, but it
was pretty draining. After a quick breakfast, we headed to Old City to meet up
with some friends and family who had arrived the night before and check in to
that hotel. My three bridal party members, my wonderful sister-in-law, and I
walked around the corner for mani-pedis and then lunch at Amada, which was a
lot of fun. We then came back to the hotel to freshen up for the rehearsal at
Valley Green Inn. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyk9HnhY6VqsRuKNAfGNI0ym6UtHPJjecx1CA5gzwwcVF88jQW1RcRD-NumL4AQfPqTsbH_5QssYdIW4jMSPEBpicg3j1fm0PeYBUdnDlWER_1Zy1FsGfTmcV4STo2I3ViDsn-gQkl/s960/215274_10200949998216687_140904987_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyk9HnhY6VqsRuKNAfGNI0ym6UtHPJjecx1CA5gzwwcVF88jQW1RcRD-NumL4AQfPqTsbH_5QssYdIW4jMSPEBpicg3j1fm0PeYBUdnDlWER_1Zy1FsGfTmcV4STo2I3ViDsn-gQkl/s320/215274_10200949998216687_140904987_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Matt and I had only seen the venue during winter, so we were
thrilled to see so much beautiful green. After wandering around the area and
taking in its beauty and coordinating with the venue on some logistics, we
actually rehearsed. My soul sister/maid of honor/voice of reason insisted that
I wear the shoes that I would wear for the wedding to practice, which ended up
being a very good idea. I knew then and there that those shoes were not going
to last beyond the ceremony. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">:-)</span></span>
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I also had a chance to see some of the decorations that my
dad and stepmother put together for us. Since we are avid travelers and
wanderers, our wedding theme was vintage postcards and travel. My dad and
stepmom found great old suitcases, which they decorated with tons of old travel
stickers they found on ebay. The goal was to stack them and leave the top one
open with luggage tags that spelled C-A-R-D-S strung across the top. The table
that the venue gave us for cards/gift was a bit small, though, so we just put
the smaller suitcase on the table and the larger suitcase (and it was large!)
in front of the table on its side. It worked great! And even better, my stepmom
brought a ton of postcards that we had sent them over the years to stuff into
the side pockets of the suitcase to add to the effect.</div>
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After the rehearsal we piled back into cars and battled
Schuylkill Expressway rush-hour traffic to get to <a href="http://www.citytavern.com/" target="_blank">City Tavern</a> for our
dinner. We were really excited about this—almost as excited as the wedding
itself! We had been to City Tavern and love the food, the vibe, and the
atmosphere. It’s the oldest tavern in the country, built in 1773, and the
founders of the country and many revolutionaries broke bread there. The
original building suffered a fire in 1834 and was demolished in 1856, but was
rebuilt as a near-exact replica. The menu contains recipes the era, including
lots of delicious wild game and other foods from the 18th century. Some of the
dessert recipes are from Martha Washington, and some of the beers—the Ales of
the Revolution—are recipes from George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and
Benjamin Franklin. The staff also dress in period garb and the tableware are
replicas from the 18th century. Our waitress was also one of the restaurant’s
historians, so we got a great schpeel on the history of the building and the
area. This was exactly what we wanted for our rehearsal dinner since nearly all
of our guests there (save my dad and stepmom and brother) were from out of town
and many had never been to Philly before. </div>
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Later that night, we joined some of our extended family and
friends who flew in and were staying in or near our hotel at the hotel bar. It
was a lot of fun hanging out with everyone, although it was hard to try to
divide our attention among so many tables of people who didn’t necessarily know
each other. We didn’t stay too late, of course, because tomorrow was a big day!
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Matt and I stayed in a suite that night, and after breakfast
he went to one of the groomsman’s rooms to get ready and my bridesmaids, my
sister-in-law, and my soon-to-be mother-in-law came to the suite, where
champagne (and sparkling cider for the expecting) was waiting. After breakfast,
it seemed like there was plenty of time, but then the hair stylist came and then
the make-up person came and then the florist came and the photographers came
and it just went so quickly! We had a hoagie tray delivered around 11, and I
scarfed some food down before getting my make-up done. There was no way I was
passing up South Philly cannolis!<br />
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A shuttle was collecting us at 1:00 to take pictures around
the city (Elfreth’s Alley, Independence Hall, and the Art Museum), and Matt and
I were doing our “first look” at 12:45. We were going to do it beside the
hotel, but it was a little too windy so the photographer suggested a place
inside, which worked out really well. We had written each other letters, which
we read at our first look. By then the shuttle was there and we all loaded in
for our first stop for photos: <a href="http://www.elfrethsalley.org/" target="_blank">Elfreth’s Alley</a>, the oldest residential
street in the country, and Bladen’s Court off of Elfreth’s. It’s such a
beautiful spot, and we had great timing as there weren’t many people there. While
in Bladen’s Court, a large group of field trippers came and nicely waited for
us to finish taking pictures. When we came out, they were all excited and
clapped for us and yelled “congratulations.” It was very fun. We received the
same reaction from so many people walking around at each location—and I got tons
of compliments on my shoes, which I knew even then would not make it very long.
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Our second stop was at <a href="http://www.visitphilly.com/history/philadelphia/independence-hall/" target="_blank">Independence Hall</a>. With the
new security measures in place after 9/11, it’s hard to stop and take pictures,
but we took a chance anyway. Our photographer is thankfully as adventurous as
we are and has our same philosophy of “it’s easier to ask for forgiveness than
permission.” This worked to our advantage because when we were nearly finished
taking pictures a security guard approached us and told us that we were not in
one of the nine preapproved photography spots and would have to leave. We, of
course, thanked him for letting us know and were on our way. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">:-)</span></span></div>
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From there we headed to the <a href="http://www.visitphilly.com/museums-attractions/philadelphia/philadelphia-museum-of-art/" target="_blank">Art Museum</a>, where we
could all do our best Rocky impersonations. It was at the top of the famous
museum stairs where my feet finally had enough. We got some great shots at the
top, but I lost the shoes coming down and then switched to flip flops in the
shuttle. </div>
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By the time we finished with the photos we were hungry. We
asked the shuttle driver to make a pit stop at a Wawa for some snacks. We were
also tired! I think some of us dozed for a little bit on the way to the venue. After
all that excitement, it was hard to believe we still had a wedding to do! When
we arrived at the venue, I was so excited to see all of our details come
together. The place cards that I designed looked great next to the seating
chart that listed all of the table names (various cities around the world we’ve
traveled to together). And the guest book table looked beautiful with the
frames we put together describing the significance of our rosemary wreath
(love, loyalty, and remembrance in Czech, German, and Polish tradition) and
describing our donation to the Human Rights Campaign as part of our dedication
to each other in honor of our friends and loved ones who don’t have the same
right to marry as we do. The Chinese lanterns also looked great on the patio
for the reception, and our cake was beautiful. We had hired a Ben Franklin
impersonator to greet guests and mingle during the cocktail hour, so it was fun
watching people talk with him from the bar. I was also thrilled with the
weather! A week prior to the wedding weather.com predicted rain for our wedding
day, but it turned out to be sunny and beautiful and not too cool or warm. </div>
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The second shuttle, which had collected all of our
out-of-town guests from the hotel, was running a little late, and I was worried
that we wouldn’t start on time, but they arrived just in time and I think we
were only about 5 minutes late to start. Everything was a big blur from there!
The bridal party walked down the aisle to an instrumental version of the<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Hawaiian Wedding Song</i>, then I walked down
with my dad to Train’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Marry Me</i>. We
had the Hawaiian <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Oli Aloha</i> chant
played after I arrived at the front of the aisle. It was actually supposed to
start after we settled in, just before the ceremony was actually to begin. But
the song seemed to transition right into the chant, so we missed most of it as
my dad was giving Matt a hug and going to his seat and then Matt and I were
saying hello to each other. Our officiate was great—we chose him because of his
openness, his work performing same-sex marriages, and his work with the Native
American population (some of his pay from weddings goes toward Native American
causes). We also had a San Francisco connection: he had lived here briefly in
the 70s. We had written the ceremony to reflect us and our story, and it came
across beautifully, if say so myself. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">:-)</span></span> We also did a
log-cutting ceremony, an old German tradition that shows the couple can work
together to accomplish a task.</div>
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We were most excited about our ring bearer shark, which I lovingly
named Sheldon the Shark. When the officiate asked if we had rings, the best man
shrugged and signaled that he didn’t know he was supposed to have the rings.
Just then the Jaws theme music started up and Sheldon “swam” down the aisle
(attached to a remote control shark car to make sure the wind didn’t take him
away). Our rings were attached to the car (secret: the best man had them the
whole time—we weren’t going to take any chances of the car accidentally going
into the creek). Why a shark? I have a longtime fascination with sharks,
especially great whites. I have been diving with galapagos and reef sharks in
Hawai’i and with great whites in South Africa. I had read about a similar ring
stunt on a wedding board and knew that we had to replicate it. </div>
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We finished the ceremony and exited to Vicente Fernández’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Yegua Palomina</i>, which started our
Mariachi-themed cocktail hour. While guests were cocktailing, we took some more
formal shots with family and with Ben Franklin. After only a few photos I knew
that my feet were finally finished with those shoes and someone retrieved my
flip-flops for me. </div>
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The rest of the reception went really fast. We had our
parents introduced to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Eye of the Tiger</i>
and the bridal party introduced to the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Magnum
PI Theme Song</i>. We were introduced to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">I
Think I Wanna Marry You</i>. I had joked that we should be introduced as Dr.
and Mr. Bacharach, but Matt wasn’t having any of that. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></span> After that, we had a
short compilation played that joked about our taking nine years to get married:
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">It’s been a long road getting from there
to here; We’ve been together since way back when; Took the long way round</i>.
Then our first dance song played: Christine McVie’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Songbird</i>. It was a little weird being the center of attention for
long. We were thankful for dinner to be served as we were starved by then. Matt
and I both ordered the duck, and we also had a prime rib dish to share since we
didn’t get a chance to taste it at our tasting. The food was good, and in
between courses we tried to get to as many tables as possible to say hello and
thank them for coming. After dinner, my uncle, a talented professional singer,
sang <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Once in Love with Amy</i> and had me
sing <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Sun Will Come Out Tomorrow</i>,
which he recalled me “performing” often as a kid. It was fun, although I don’t
know how many people may have enjoyed my karaoke-like singing! <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">:-)</span></span></div>
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We then cut our beautiful cake to Kurt Elling’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">I Feel So Smoochie</i> and opened the dance
floor. It seemed like people were having fun, although Matt and I were
preoccupied trying to make it to every table and say hello to everyone. I felt
really badly about not being able to talk more and spend more time with many
friends who hadn’t seen in a long time, many of whom traveled quite a distance
to be there. Suddenly, I was led to a chair and people started gathering around
to lift me up. I had a feeling that would happen (although it usually comes
after the Hora!), but I didn’t realize how frightening it was to be literally
in the hands of others! At one point I was falling forward and sliding off of
the front of the chair. I kept yelling that I was falling, and all of the guys
kept yelling back that they had me. A friend realized what I was saying and
pushed me back up into the chair from the front. When I was let down, it took a
few minutes before I could get up. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">:-)</span></span></div>
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Everything just went so quickly, and before I knew it, Matt
was telling me that the DJ was about to play our last song, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">I Left My Heart in San Francisco</i>. And
just like that, we were all getting ready to leave! But the party wasn’t quite
over: the shuttle was making a stop at Tony Luke’s cheesesteaks in South
Philly. We arrived at Tony Luke’s and everyone was very nice. The guy in front
of us drunkenly “announced” us and then bought our cheesesteaks! He also gave
us his ticket stub from that night’s Phillies game. It was a lot of fun, and
hard to believe the night was nearly over!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4uCKQB7C2yMVX89AmsV1uSrR2RU8epXlbS4Y-XmTY8hLfAuhRyPchQVCr-kMAsR2sF6PBuMzCawAUxNzd5ZLcGtFccLBbFoVRpRcTBrE56BXI8XBHAsdXmUSeZGUtMB0VaQCNOcX/s960/TLs2--.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4uCKQB7C2yMVX89AmsV1uSrR2RU8epXlbS4Y-XmTY8hLfAuhRyPchQVCr-kMAsR2sF6PBuMzCawAUxNzd5ZLcGtFccLBbFoVRpRcTBrE56BXI8XBHAsdXmUSeZGUtMB0VaQCNOcX/s320/TLs2--.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The next day we met a bunch of friends and family at one of
our favorite spots for lunch: Famous Fourth Street Deli. It was great to hang
out in a less formal setting. There happened to be a street festival on South
Street that day, so we moseyed along South to Front and then slowly made our
way back to the hotel. We relaxed a bit and then went to an Afghan restaurant
for dinner with Matt’s parents and a friend. We tried to get back early to pack
to leave for Europe the next day.</div>
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Before heading to the airport, we met my dad and stepmom for
brunch. We also gave them a bunch of things from the wedding, including my
dress, to ship back to us later. It was nice to see them, although I was
anxious to get to the airport since we were running a little later than I
anticipated. On our way to the airport, we hit our final bump in the wedding
travel: we got into a car accident! Rather, a guy in a very large truck backed
into our vehicle and smushed in the front. Thankfully, we didn’t have a huge
delay at the rental car return and made it to the airport in time. From there,
we were off to Europe, which is a story for another blog!</div>
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Ps: See more wedding pictures <a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWFS" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>
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Pps: At the last minute (about 3 weeks before the wedding)
we decided to also hire a videographer. I let Matt take care of that process
since his background is in television and he knew what he was looking for, so
it wasn’t included on my spreadsheet. I’m glad that we did hire a videographer
because there were so many things that I missed. For example, while Matt and I
were mingling with another table and taking pictures, someone wheeled my mother
in her wheelchair onto the dance floor and everyone danced around her. My
cousin’s husband busted out some serious Michael Jackson moves another time. I
didn’t see any of that during the wedding, but was able to see it on the video.
It was also fun watching our ceremony as an observer. I can’t say that we’ll
watch it often, or maybe even ever again (even as the bride it got pretty
boring about halfway through), but it was a good decision to get it and I’m
glad we have it. And I’m sure that Matt’s relatives who couldn’t make the trip
will enjoy seeing the ceremony part. </div>
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Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-59325892945811418522013-07-01T21:55:00.001-07:002013-07-01T21:55:19.447-07:00The Ultimate Adventure, Part 1: Running for Office (Written January 2013)<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
I adore traveling, and my life seems incomplete without it. But some
adventures happen at home, too. Last year I gathered up all of my courage and
so-called skills and ran in my first citywide race for San Francisco Community
College Board. To say that this was an adventure is an understatement. I
announced my candidacy more than a year before the election and spent the
remaining time doing all of the things one is supposed to do when running for
office, which is mostly politicking. And raising money. More on that later.
Now, as a policy person, I am often turned off by the politics of politics.
That's not to say that there weren't fun moments. In fact, much of it was a
pretty good experience, such as meeting so many amazing people, from
politicians to average citizens trying to get their voices heard, and learning
so much about the inner workings of a higher education system I thought I
understood. I am also extremely grateful for all of the people and
organizations who took a chance on me—a first-time candidate—with their
endorsements, and who believed in me enough to write a check, make phone calls,
hold signs, and support me through the entire process, which is not unlike a
very long ride on an old, rickety roller coaster. One that is mostly controlled
by an Old Boys Network (although thanks to the work of too many people to list
here this is improving and more women are being allowed and afforded access).<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Politics is a special kind of crazy here in San Francisco. A candidate has
to meet with everyone. And by everyone, I mean not only other elected officials
whose support you'd like to have, but also at least one leader of Every.
Single. Organization in the city. San Francisco is a very politically active
city, which is a great thing. But it also means that there are clubs and
organizations and activist groups not only for every district (there are 11)
but also for many neighborhoods, every special interest group you can imagine,
and some special interest groups you'd never imagine. You have to have coffee with
everyone. Needless to say, I drank A LOT of coffee during those 13 months—maybe
with 60 to 80 people. To be sure, I'm definitely not complaining, as I made
many new friends and learned so much about some really great organizations and
clubs. But it is challenging for a schedule that already squeezes in a
full-time job and part-time teaching. Oh, and did I mention that I was planning
my wedding at the same time? On more than one occasion (OK, maybe several times
a day) I wondered how people had the stamina to run. I also wondered why we
have a political system that is so difficult for an average person to
navigate. <br />
<br />
During that time, candidates are also expected to fill out questionnaires
for each club or organization’s PAC (Political Action Committee, often the arm
of an organization that deals with political endorsements). These
questionnaires range from one page (rare) to more than 15 pages. And each
questionnaire is worded just differently enough so that cutting and pasting is
difficult. I filled out approximately 25 questionnaires (some organizations are
incredibly considerate and use the DCCC<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3167291593550363572#_ftn1" name="_ftnref1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a>
questionnaire rather than have the candidate complete an additional one). My
idea, in case anyone is interested, is to have one [potentially very long]
questionnaire on which<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>all Party clubs
collaborate that contains all of the most common questions (who are you, what
are you running for, why are you running, what do you want to do, etc.). Then
each club can add one to two additional questions that are relevant to the
specific club. Not only will this make the process easier for an average person
to engage in the political process, but it will also be far more transparent as
everyone can see the responses for every organization’s questions since they’re
all on one form. I see it as a win-win. <br />
<br />
Just when I thought the most time-consuming part had to be over, I was
introduced to what we in crazypoliticsland call "the endorsement
phase." This is when all candidates for all offices go in front of all
endorsing clubs and organizations to give their schpeel for why the club or
organization should endorse that candidate (or proposition position). Sounds
easy, right? Well, considering that there are no fewer than 45 groups we're
talking about, this meant multiple endorsement meetings every night and most
weekend afternoons. In fact, there were often overlapping meetings at the same
exact time in various areas of the city. If there ever was a time to have a
clone it's during the endorsement phase, and I’m entirely unsure how anyone
with a family is able to properly participate in the political process. On most
nights I was lucky to get myself fed; I couldn’t imagine doing that in a
situation where I was responsible for getting a child fed.<br />
<br />
I'll take this moment to publicly
write what I've been talking about since then: I strongly recommend that the
Democratic Party convene all of its clubs and host one (or maybe two)
endorsement nights, kind of like a speed dating process in which every club is
in a different room of the same building and candidates rotate among rooms.
Each candidate will have his or her normal two to five minutes to talk
(presumably the representatives would have already read the endorsement
questionnaire) and then move on to the next room/club. There is an argument
that having individual meetings forces candidates to go to parts of the city
that are often ignored or where the club is located. I understand and respect
this argument, which is why these speed dating-types of endorsement meetings
could be broken up into maybe two to four meetings in locations across the
city. That would still be far more efficient than the current process of
scheduling endorsement meetings on top of each other and hoping that candidates
can manage to be in two or three different places at once. <br />
<br />
I have many feelings about the endorsement process. From a personal
perspective, it was a great experience to hear so many other candidates’
backgrounds and platforms and be able to answer questions of each organization
on the spot. But I was also disappointed in the process itself. For many of
these clubs and organizations, the decisions had already been made long before
candidates walked in the door, and the decisions were made based not
necessarily on who might be the best candidate, but sometimes on who owed whom
something and who had the longest (or the most seemingly beneficial) relationships.
At one club the PAC recommendations were made before they even heard from
anyone, even on a questionnaire! I always knew this was part of politics, but
to see it up close and personal in such a way made me lose a little bit of
respect for certain organizations as well as the process itself. The other
problem that I see with some of the endorsement processes was the procedure for
voting. For many clubs and organizations, an endorsement is granted if a
candidate gets X percent of votes from its PAC members. But PAC members aren’t
required to be present the entire day, so some may come and hear a few
candidates and some may come and here all of the candidates and some may not
come at all. So people are voting based on something other than what the
candidate has to say and responses to that PAC’s questions. <br />
<br />
Another factor on which some base their endorsement decisions is a
candidate’s fundraising. And, to be honest, the fundraising is a hugely
important component of any campaign. Without funds, a candidate cannot get any
literature to hand out or to mail. No window signs. No flyers. No help with the
campaign outside of the kindness of volunteers. Without funds, a campaign is
essentially dead on arrival. Even if you’re the best candidate in the world,
without a way to get that information out to all the voters, they won’t know
it. Even faced with that reality, I still find the emphasis put on fundraising
(and the need for such large amounts of money in politics) physically
nauseating. We can joke that only in San Francisco would someone need to raise
$50K to $200K for a college or school board race, but it’s not a joke. And it’s
not only in San Francisco. The amount of money in politics is and should be
sickening to anyone paying attention. I realize that I alone will not change
the system, but I am very proud and supportive of those who I know are talking
about and working on this issue at the local, state, and national levels. <br />
<br />
I cannot lie, the fundraising part was really challenging for me for a lot
of reasons. For one thing, I’ve never been comfortable asking anyone for money,
especially for myself!! Even after my fabulous Emerge California training, I
have a hard time. For another thing, the vast majority of people in my life and
who I know don’t have a lot of discretionary income, nor are most politically
active. To add to my challenge, considering that I was a first-time candidate
with little name recognition, my network wasn’t, shall we say, large (and by
that I mean it was pretty skimpy). It was not my least favorite part of the
process, but it was definitely nowhere near my favorite part. And I can easily
see why the fundraising piece keeps many good people—good women—from running
for office. <br />
<br />
Despite my frustrations with certain aspects of the process, it was indeed a
learning experience. And despite my lack of name recognition and the fact that
I raised among the least amount of money, I am incredibly proud that I received
so many endorsements from across the San Francisco political spectrum and I
came within 600 votes of winning (it was so close I was still checking the
daily counts more than a week later. From Maui.). Many people are asking me if
I’m going to run again. I would very much like to, although I have a little
while before I have to make a decision. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></span><br />
<br />
Ps: I can’t very well write anything about my running for office without
mentioning my amazing campaign consultant (and equally amazing friend), Marjan
Philhour. She talked me off a ledge on almost a daily basis and I am incredibly
thankful for her. <br />
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<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3167291593550363572#_ftnref1" name="_ftn1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a>
The DCCC stands for Democratic County Central Committee, which is the official Democratic
Party leadership at the county level. </div>
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<img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDVlgcEGtktP0cJxpJ0ywrLBN1Tn3QsWwQJ1L4QKGj1lx12LsocBGTpN8bQIyiM1lMllALACXhTn9ol3wrbn_McCU1Mloo0wz_VK6Kd_qIquP973ZEvowdb4ZEt30ZwRlfxolN8Od-/s200/Palm+Card+Both+Sides+2.JPG" width="148" /> <img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX8hYNy8O_pa6yy33OEvekiqcLxZOXcQxvpwXsCmM68KYmAh_j4FrEpq17skDkkaUnGhUQQ1k74aIqRA4SoqxLrMjcfNzWP28fXTM9Mx44YSFWsmyq-WSVovptWYWGlZNvh_aP2__R/s200/Back+Bacharach+Sign.jpg" width="135" /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ar7L0D49T5rEOvZLu7aZwmi9vF37vaBdrgpOOOjHQBviji8B5Bvl2-t9Lod7ZfkzwgrQFg27lit_Hy8Yw-sHCNss179xuFgLLoItMM68NVIZ4t-CmgVsFlVcRFBGjUcZ7ZcObuiS/s720/579094_458824030830250_1341486580_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ar7L0D49T5rEOvZLu7aZwmi9vF37vaBdrgpOOOjHQBviji8B5Bvl2-t9Lod7ZfkzwgrQFg27lit_Hy8Yw-sHCNss179xuFgLLoItMM68NVIZ4t-CmgVsFlVcRFBGjUcZ7ZcObuiS/s200/579094_458824030830250_1341486580_n.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-27622716216468123392011-09-18T20:56:00.000-07:002013-06-14T11:43:24.097-07:00Links to all Africa & Dubai 2011 photo galleries1. Cape Town:<br />
<a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/album.sfly?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNXng&startIndex=0&fid=fec58e3edabe9704" target="_blank">http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/album.sfly?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNXng&startIndex=0&fid=fec58e3edabe9704</a><br />
<br />
2. Great white shark dive:<br />
<a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNXyw" target="_blank">http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNXyw</a><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
3. Johannesburg, SA:<br />
<a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNXvA" target="_blank">http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNXvA</a><br />
<br />
4. Timbavati Game Reserve at Kruger National Park:<br />
<a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNX2g" target="_blank">http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNX2g</a><br />
<br />
5. Mpumalanga-Blyde River Canyon, SA:<br />
<a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNX6Q" target="_blank">http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNX6Q</a><br />
<br />
6. Chobe, Botswana, and Namibia:<br />
<a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNX-A" target="_blank">http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNX-A</a><br />
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7. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe:<br />
<a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWEW" target="_blank">http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWEW</a><br />
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8. Dubai, UAE:<br />
<a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWEl" target="_blank">http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AZsmrNqzcNWEl</a>Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3167291593550363572.post-38500480979626049432011-09-17T21:53:00.000-07:002013-06-23T18:05:24.257-07:00Africa TripThis trip was a long time coming. In 2007, Matt and I went to Belize for fabulous holiday. With the second largest barrier reef in the world, the Belize Cayes are a haven for divers and snorkelers. At the airport, we were behind a couple in line who were wearing tee shirts that said they dived with the great whites. I have always been fascinated by great whites and we struck up a conversation during which they described a month-long trip they took from Cape Town to Cairo; False Bay just south of Cape Town is the great white capital of the world. At that moment I started planning my own Cape to Cairo trip. For four years I saved both funds and vacation days in anticipation of this dream trip. With the recent uprising in North Africa, including Cairo, I revised my plan to see Southern and East Africa. Ultimately, after a travel agent snafu (never, never use 2Afrika), I scheduled a three-week trip to South Africa, Botswana, and Zimbabwe. <br />
<a name='more'></a>I started off in Cape Town solo and then met Matt at the Johannesburg airport. We spent a day in Joburg before driving out to Timbavati, a private game reserve within Kruger National Park in the northeast part of South Africa. After that safari trip and a day of exploring Mpumalanga’s Blyde River Canyon area, we headed back to Joburg to fly up to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. We drove from the airport to Chobe, Botswana, and then returned to Vic Falls. While in Botswana we also had the opportunity to spend some time in the Kafuvu Village on Namibia's Caprivi Strip. As it turned out, Matt and I flew on Emirates Air and transferred in Dubai. Not wanting to waste any opportunity to see another city, we scheduled a two-day stopover in Dubai on the way home. In those three weeks we saw five countries!<br />
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I left for Cape Town on 11 August and, after a 15-hour flight to Dubai, an overnight in the Dubai airport, and a 9-hour flight to Cape Town, spent an amazing week exploring the area on my own. As friends had warned, I fell in love with the city and can't wait to return! It took me a couple days to get over the fact that I was really and truly finally in South Africa after so many years of planning. I was both excited and nervous to be there alone. Although I never had any second thoughts about the logistics of solo travel before, I rediscovered that “table for one, please” can be both depressing and liberating at the same time. I had always enjoyed traveling alone (no one to wait for or schedule around), and had even lived in Mexico City, one of the largest cities in the world, by myself; however, this seemed a bit more risky for some reason. I had done so much research and reading on precautions and staying safe that I was convinced that I would be mugged while disembarking the plane! Of course, I had little to worry about. Using the common sense that I use in every city around the world where I have traveled or lived, I was never in any danger (at least that I knew of). And I was staying in a touristy area that was well patrolled. My lovely hotel was only about a block away from the Victoria & Albert (or, as it’s know,V&A) Waterfront, which is similar to San Francisco’s Pier 39 or Chicago’s Navy Pier. </div>
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On my first day wandering around the Waterfront, I came across a street band that was amazing! I have heard many street bands throughout the world and, although some are better than others, none have ever wowed me enough to buy a CD. But this street band was great! The singer had this incredible baritone voice with which he sang opera with a South Africa twist. I couldn’t help but dance and had to have the music to listen to when I returned home.</div>
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Although the weather was perfect for wandering, I decided to go to one of the few places that was open on a Sunday, the <a href="http://www.sajewishmuseum.co.za/home/default.asp"><u>South Africa Jewish Museum & Holocaust Center</u></a>. The museum entrance is through the country’s oldest synagogue, built in 1863. The museum is on the small side, but intriguing with nice exhibits. The current special exhibit was Jonathan Shapiro’s collection <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Zapiro: Jiving with Madiba</i>. The collection included 130 cartoons tracing the life of Nelson Mandela “from Prisoner to President to Pensioner.” One of the cartoons titled <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Frustrated Expectations</i> reminded me of Obama’s challenges. Across the courtyard is the Holocaust Center, which was unsurprisingly moving. I had no idea that so many Latvian Jews came to South Africa before, during, and after the war. With my own Latvian ancestors, I found the history of that emigration intriguing. The Center also did a really nice job at drawing parallels between the Holocaust and apartheid. There were also several Jewish leaders who were involved in the freedom struggle who were highlighted.</div>
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I stayed at the museum for quite a while before taking a taxi back to the waterfront. I decided to have a splurge meal, going to Karibu, a South African restaurant. I had the ostrich, which was done perfectly, with a local dish of putu and chakalaka, which is a maize-based side dish. Of course, it wasn’t complete without a local pinotage!</div>
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The next day, Monday, I headed off to Robben Island (which I later learned means “seal” island in Afrikaans), where Nelson Mandela and many other political prisoners were held during apartheid. It’s hard to believe that such horrendous oppression was so recent, and it’s even more difficult to know that the world continues to violate human rights on massive scales. All of the tours of Robben Island are led by former prisoners; my tour guide was a former political prisoner named Derrick. Derrick’s number was 19/86, meaning he was the 19<sup>th</sup> prisoner of 1986. He, as well as most other prisoners, had been charged with sabotage, which was a catch-all conviction commonly used. He described the differences among the cell blocks as well as what life was like for him personally. Most prisoners were allowed to write and receive one 500-word letter every six months. We saw the limestone where those from B block, including Mandela, were sent for hard labor. Just below that area is a small cave where those who were educated—doctors, lawyers, politicians—would teach those who were not. According to Derrick, there was a saying, “each one, teach one.” I continue to find such striking parallels between the holocaust and apartheid and, to a lesser extent, America’s apartheid before the civil rights movement. I also continue to wonder if the world will ever advance enough to eliminate all forms of human rights abuses.</div>
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Tuesday was my much-anticipated meeting with the great whites in Gansbai (pronounced Haans-buy). I was the first of six gals collected early in the morning. We became fast friends as we traveled for two hours south, stopping in Hermanus to see the Southern Right whales calving close to shore. We were all very excited to arrive at the shark dive, but disappointed to be separated into different boats—the other five going together and me left to make a new set of shark-diving friends. After the initial chumming, it didn’t take long for the beautiful sharks to show up. There were only a couple at first, but the group then grew to seven or eight sharks, some 5 or 6 meters in length! When it was my turn to get in the cage my hair kept getting caught in the mask, making it leak. I seem to have that problem whenever I’m under water! I finally got my hair out of the way and tried to concentrate on looking beyond the air bubbles in front of me. By the time I realized there was a shark in front of me all I saw was the tail going by! One shark did give us quite a thump against the cage, though. Before I knew it, it was time to come up. I found that seeing the sharks was actually much better from the boat than from the cage. It was very different from when I was cage diving in Hawaii, where the water is crystal clear and we stay under water for viewing as opposed to here where we simply hold our breath and go down to see the shark when we’re told one is coming near the cage. The ride back to shore provided a stunning sunset to complete the day. Most of the gals slept on the ride back, but I found myself contemplating how a game a football can just break out spontaneously on the side of the highway.</div>
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On Wednesday, I knew it would be a good day when my hotel’s breakfast buffet included tator tots. I walked over to the aquarium to catch the hop on, hop off sightseeing bus to Parliament. Unfortunately, there was no space that morning, but they said I could come back in the afternoon. In the meantime, I took a nice walk to the <a href="http://www.districtsix.co.za/"><u>District Six museum</u></a>. District Six was a predominantly Black neighborhood where families lived for generations and that was conveniently located to the docks, where many in the community worked, as well as other jobs, schools, and shops. In the 1970s, under apartheid, the district was declared to be a Whites-only area, and all of the residents were forcibly removed and relocated to the townships in the Cape Flats area. This area meant that workers had to commute long distances to jobs and children had to commute long distances to schools. This was made especially difficult because of the pass laws that were in place. The museum was a moving testament to how horrible any type of race-based, discriminatory laws can ruin lives. The more I learned about these laws, the more disgusted I become about similar laws that the extremist republicans are trying to pass in the US such as Arizona’s hateful immigration laws. I wonder if everyone had the opportunity to travel and witness firsthand what these types of laws do to people’s lives if they would start to care about humanity a bit more. The museum was very moving. The focal point was a giant, beautiful mural with striking contrasts of sadness and pain with happiness and joy. But what was really poignant was just outside the doors of the museum. There had been protests for a few days by the labor movement wanting an 18% raise. On this day, there was a massive protest march going down the street right in front of the museum. It was amazing to read about oppressive pre-1994 laws in the museum and then see a perfect example of democracy in action outside.</div>
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From there, I wandered around the area, passing the <a href="http://www.castleofgoodhope.co.za/"><u>Castle of Good Hope</u></a>, the oldest surviving colonial building in South Africa, and city hall, where Mandela made his first public speech after being released from Robben Island. I also passed the <a href="http://www.iziko.org.za/museums/slave-lodge"><u>slave lodge</u></a>, one of the oldest buildings in Cape Town, built in 1679, and a museum that I was planning on going to later in the day. But first, a quick lunch at St. George’s Square and then <a href="http://www.parliament.gov.za/live/index.php"><u>Parliament</u></a>! The only other people in my tour group was an older couple who were actually from Cape Town and had never had a chance to see how Parliament ran. That made me smile. I wonder how many Americans go to see Congress in action just to see how their country’s government is run? Anyways. Our guide, Kenneth, showed us the old Assembly chambers where Prime Minster Hendrik Verwoerd was famously assassinated by a uniformed page. Verwoerd was one of the architects of apartheid and, sadly, a social psychologist. Thankfully, international ethics in the profession of psychology have been strengthened since his time! That room is now used for caucus meetings. We also got to see the library, which is exclusive to Parliament members and their staff. This library was breathtaking! It was rooms and rooms of three-story floor to high ceiling beautiful carved wood and volumes of books on policy, including a whole section on women’s issues (which, again sadly, South Africa needs!). I was able to sneak a photo in there, but it really doesn’t do it justice. A highlight of the tour was going into the gallery to watch the National Assembly convene and debate! It happened to be the day that they came back from recess, and the debate was fascinating! Kenneth wrote down the name and contact information of the Minister in charge of women’s and children’s issues, but unfortunately I didn’t have time to contact her and meet her.</div>
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I didn’t want to miss the chance to see the slave lodge, so I left the Assembly gallery and walked across the street. The museum’s theme is “From human wrongs to human rights” and it explores the history of slavery in South Africa. They estimate that up to 9,000 slaves, convicts, and the mentally ill lived in the building between 1679 and 1811. It was a very moving museum, and I was happy to see that special attention was paid to modern-day slavery and human trafficking.</div>
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Many people had suggested that I do a township tour before I left Cape Town, so I decided that I just couldn’t leave without doing that. On Thursday morning, I was collected from the hotel and taken to <a href="http://www.capetown.at/heritage/city/langa.htm"><u>Langa</u></a> by a Langa resident. Langa is the oldest township in Cape Town, established in 1923 when the Urban Areas Act was passed, which forced Blacks to relocate from their neighborhoods. Most of the Langa residents belong to the Xhosa tribe, whose clicking language I think I am almost able to pronounce. At first, only men were allowed in the hostels that were built in Langa, and 12 men would live in a room with three beds. Men were eventually allowed to bring their families, and to this day as many as three extended families will live out of one room. In a class above, one family lives in a tin shanty, and the middle class, mostly government workers, live in small bungalows that the government has built for them, complete with solar panels! This middle class area is referred to as “Beverly Hills.” I was honored to have an opportunity to visit with some people in their homes, and everyone was welcoming when I asked to take their pictures. I also visited a shebeen, or local pub, which was illegal until 1930, where I tasted some home-brewed maize beer. It felt a little strange walking in to people’s lives like it’s a zoo or for tourist entertainment. I talked about this with the guide, who assured me that the money for the tour goes into the community and that the residents see the tours as an opportunity to not only grow their community but to ensure that attention is kept on the township, which equals more government programs and education opportunities. The guide himself was able to go to university and now runs several community programs. It is those community programs that have helped with the domestic violence and substance abuse problems that accompany such poverty. Family planning programs, whose signs were all over the township, have also been a big help; just a generation ago families consisted of up to 15 children and today families have only 2 to 3 children. HIV rates are also disproportionately high in the townships, but the government provides a huge bin of free condoms and that has helped.</div>
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From Langa we went to <a href="http://www.nomvuyos-tours.co.za/township_info.shtml"><u>Khayelitsha</u></a>, the largest township and located on the Cape Flats. Khayelitsha was established under apartheid to solve the “problem” of the Black population by forming Black neighborhoods. Many people were forcibly removed from their neighborhoods in Cape Town and relocated to townships such as Khayelitsha. The highlight of my trip to Khayelitsha was visiting a preschool/kindergarten, where the kiddos were so excited to sing for us and see pictures of themselves on the camera screen! They sang the national anthem in Afrikaans and then sang such staples as “itsy bitsy spider” and “if you’re happy and you know it.” It was adorable! And so much fun to sing with them!</div>
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<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=2242815590105%3A1992807360"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653768324691680642" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja0EXSS0PcUV5vFvRLmFZUK-ge4udkqxUrnkk5xG5BDlpewFEUbHaF0hfOAvuynudJ_ofYJo4Y3G5JyuCWo17QF7xtBuHS1WTsByu1nq1p_zgWZ-korpWqywJWsAG0KWxZOeZgKfJL/s200/DSC_0639P.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 133px; width: 200px;" /></a></div>
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Later in the day I went to the <a href="http://bokaap.co.za/"><u>Bo-Kaap</u></a> area of the city, where many former slaves settled after emancipation. Most of the slaves were from present-day Malaysia and Indonesia, and that area of the city reflects the rich culture from that part of the world. The area reminded me of San Francisco in a lot of ways. For one, it’s a hilly area, and it also boasts beautifully colorful houses. Under slavery, people were not allowed to wear colors, so when they were freed they painted their houses in bright colors. The Bo-Kaap is also the center for the unique Cape Malay cuisine that part of Cape Town is known for. It consists of curry-type dishes, but my favorite was the malva pudding, which is like a cross between an apricot butter cake and a tres leches cake and is served with a custard or crème anglaise.</div>
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<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=2242815590105%3A1992807360"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653768804866100450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj0vHtNT6Ol_pwikQbNIEN4S-xTXuoe8BbFEZ6DTOsWpe8_Q4riFUaX5lkji3QjOPmhLS0pBvVF8Cu2zjpFMe-rw8qwZmjZyctFLdfRA0EaL9PdMr9m19-Ew-mKDrM-TiDMuILCrYB/s200/DSC_0658P.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 133px; width: 200px;" /></a></div>
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On my last full day in Cape Town, I booked a trip to <a href="http://www.capepoint.co.za/"><u>Cape Point</u></a> and the <a href="http://www.cape-town.info/pages/attractions/cape-of-good-hope.php"><u>Cape of Good Hope</u></a>. The tour guide, Robb, was so funny and personable it felt like we—myself and two other American gals—were being shown around town by a friend who lived there. We started out the day with rain, and to stall we stopped in Simon’s Town and at a bird and wildlife sanctuary. This turned out to be the only place on my entire trip where I saw my beloved honey badger! By the time we reached the Point, the most southern point on the continent, the clouds opened up to a beautiful blue sky. Directly south is Antarctica. Cape Point is where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet, and the waves were really cool! We spent about two hours hiking up to the top lighthouse, and the views (and the hike!) were breathtaking. From there we went to the Cape of Good Hope, where we studied rock markings and geology that showed that about 350 million years ago South America was attached right where we were standing! It was very cool. We then headed to <a href="http://www.aboutcapetown.com/penguins.htm"><u>Boulder’s Beach</u></a>, passing some oceanside-dwelling ostriches along the way. Boulder’s is home to the African penguin, dubbed the “jackass” penguin because of the donkey-like sound they make. On the way back up to Cape Town, we had the opportunity to stop at a place that overlooks the <a href="http://www.sa-venues.com/attractionswc/cape-flats.htm"><u>Cape Flats</u></a>, which was amazing!</div>
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On Saturday morning, I was lucky enough to have time to check out the <a href="http://www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/"><u>Neighborgoods Market</u></a> in the Woodstock suburb before heading to the airport. The market is similar to San Francisco’s Ferry Building or Philadelphia’s Reading Terminal Market. It was a lot of fun to take photos there, and a great place to stock up on snacks for the flight and the rest of the trip!</div>
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<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=2242815590105%3A1992807360"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653771014395819810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhbDqnLyNjb_QJqMCOTjH-EDeg2mFUqS-VrLWi0yBSqNNNgbwtmt2P6steBJklUYH9vHahU7Nxd_24UKZvU0u8pbYtv0YJw5lXhjdA56BxeSiUollM2QQc7C_Ru8Q4-8fr2b4vpW9/s200/DSC_1035P.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 133px; width: 200px;" /></a></div>
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My flight to Joburg went quickly, and Matt had already arrived from Dubai and was waiting for me in the terminal. I was really excited to hook up with an old friend from grad school who lives in Joburg! She and her cousin, her cousin’s husband, and their 3-year old collected us from the hotel the next day and we went to the apartheid museum. The entrance tickets to the museum are randomly assigned by race, and you enter the museum according to race as it was during apartheid. The main exhibits were moving, and the museum was having a special exhibit on Mandela and his life, which was fabulous. After a late lunch in the jazz district, we headed out to trendy Melville, which reminded me a little bit of Boston’s Newbury Street.</div>
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<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=5242815590105%3A511462873"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653772071496857874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsecjaSmmbT6hnrAakCNAXE-YJ_fF4lXrpfVDyZp9U7vAF8PbNEJSb6RXTet5HnzCyGMkQRa20arv9SkCkrod15p2EgMXA1sCmPmIkP8Ty37iKZnB_ZshaR8uDV0RH7we61aaULdGI/s200/DSC_1084P.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 200px; width: 133px;" /></a></div>
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The next day started the safari part of the trip, and we had a 7-hour drive (with various scenic stops) to <u><a href="http://www.timbavati.co.za/">Timbavati Game Reserve</a> </u>in Kruger National Park. Our driver and guide, Marshall, was very knowledgeable about the country, the area, and the politics, which made for really interesting discussions about what life was like before, during, and after apartheid. We arrived at <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g471860-d471913-Reviews-Umlani_Bushcamp-Timbavati_Private_Nature_Reserve_Kruger_National_Park.html"><u>Umlani Bush Camp</u> </a>just in time for lunch. Umlani means “place of peace,” and it certainly was exactly that! Our hut was lovely and reminded me a little bit of the hut we stayed at in Thailand’s western jungle. We had a toilet (yay for indoor plumbing!!) and an outdoor shower, which was cool. Umlani also has a tree house about 2 km from the camp that overlooks a watering hole. That afternoon we had our first game drive and saw a hippo by the tree house as well as some impala. At one point, we were smack in the middle of a herd of about 100 elephants, which was an amazing and humbling experience! A highlight, though, was catching sight of a leopard with a fresh kill. The poor steenbok never had a chance! Soon, the hyenas came in, and the leopard grabbed the kill by the throat and took it up a tree! It was stunning. On the way back to the camp, our tracker spotted a chameleon in a tree and we stopped to check it out. It’s amazing how they can spot things, even in the dark! After the drive, everyone sits around the boma, or fire area, for drinks before dinner. At Umlani there are only 15-20 people at any given time, so all of the dining is communal, which I loved. We had a chance to meet some great people from all over and talk about the different animals we had seen. By post-dinner drinks we were exhausted and, with the 5:30a wake-up call for the morning game drive in mind, headed for our hut with our escort. Since there is no electricity at the camp and animals could be on the path, guests are escorted to their huts after dark by a staff member. By the time we got up there, our bed mosquito netting was already pulled down and I crashed. Of course, 5:30am came way too quickly, but it was really cool to be out in the bush with the sunrise. We spent some time tracking rhinos, but alas, we “only” spotted giraffe, kudu, impala, and another leopard hunting a warthog. I fell in love with the kudu with its unique lines down its side. Each kudu’s lines are slightly different, kind of like a person’s fingerprint.</div>
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<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=1342815590105%3A1742887472"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653772515527561298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXBjuj651Sjl3wbxQjUpYmQeqOL-0bYgOAE_52_WqNwkaUw3UsGEkVLJJUhzBvk-57H_ZYYalxVQS_58YgPO6kMucaXESQqGZ3dmgoGMIQ4jr0cjHBiAJeyvP3bG8Y3bNBj18QjKH-/s200/DSC_0088P.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 133px; width: 200px;" /></a><a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=1342815590105%3A1742887472"> <img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653772873602592002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqem6iU1s9JFQhxDtfS0Z2RExaZc-Eyc3Lq258t-jAbqevHr_y0NueTYRhRtVRdJWV2jASFLlENN2Qrogbx7edi0eBdtlWVPpZyRKBTer2MlvaRc8BAPYt6AIpFdWgAKduxVaC7_C8/s200/DSC_0134P.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 133px; width: 200px;" /></a></div>
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After returning to the camp for breakfast, we decided to spend the rest of the morning in the tree house. It was really peaceful and beautiful there, and we saw the resident hippo return to the watering hole. Some neighborhood turtles and a crocodile joined soon joined him, and an elephant came by for a visit. Although I’m sure it would have made for an interesting story, I’m glad that the elephant stayed on the other side of the watering hole as I think I would have been terrified to have him at eye level! We also saw some really cool birds while we were up there (who knew I would be so into birds on this trip!!).</div>
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<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=1342815590105%3A1742887472"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653773370952000194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx4jdfjCF9qRTxHEKJYqlawCTwNpWfVg0Ema8ZMC7oYlpqI7E2rsB9-Yhu8SUKhKwAYbD1OJR_uNhxQm9LUndKJ-rGjrYTH4vd55XNup4pCX9HahZssJ13r5a_98nBQesqzQ5VaoE-/s200/DSC_0220P.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 133px; width: 200px;" /></a></div>
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After returning to the camp and having lunch, we went on the afternoon drive and returned to last night’s leopard in time to see him finish eating the head of last night’s steenbok kill. That was a bit disturbing for me as we were so close we could hear his teeth scraping against the steenbok’s skull. We stopped for a drink to watch the most beautiful sunset I’ve ever seen. It started out as a yellowy orange and then turned to an interesting orangey pink before turning a unique and beautiful shade of bright pink that I had never seen before. When the sky finally went from pink to black, the most amazing stars appeared, along with the Milky Way. The only other time I had seen such a sky was in the Sahara desert. That night we could hear the hyenas just outside the camp along with our returning friend, the frog. But I was so tired I fell right to sleep! The next few days were filled with game drives and a bush walk where we saw amazing animals, including a pride of lions with a rare white lion cub, a full-grown male nyala (also rare), a dwarf mongoose, and lots of kudu, one of my favorites! We tracked down a rhino, but he was so skittish we only got a glimpse before he ran off. At the end of each day’s last game drive, all of the guides sign off of the radio, wishing everyone a good night and acknowledging all of the help they gave each other throughout the day. I really enjoyed that ritual.</div>
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<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=1342815590105%3A1742887472"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653773872188494354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsDHXRL2Nvt9yhXoVLjnGKEVNZmVfK8sdHCNY9ZRA0Lq2Nzp6vsOya-EUgHVujtCuMCqtt4OSroBaEYHs7t5fyx-0TRWQlI1gNLTQ3uq-vosYrbWH00wR7G6V3ogl0jgRzhOEm7xg/s200/DSC_0251P.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 133px; width: 200px;" /></a><a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=1342815590105%3A1742887472"> <img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653774601807792978" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT7AZeArL9d63Fyyrp6ojStqQdHt06IEbJN9DIJq2TdIXvBZSefUbxqYO4Ft-sz1mHaAnXOfBFqFtygXw_vq5Yivo1KEaxRAz0Uz0FE-pwVgxq9Tl2y448WYrX-Y1PtY9gga4iWPXU/s200/DSC_0286P.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 133px; width: 200px;" /></a></div>
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I was sad to leave Umlani, but excited to explore the Drakensberg escarpment’s <a href="http://www.sa-venues.com/game-reserves/mpl_blyderiver.htm"><u>Blyde River Canyon</u></a> in Mpumalanga. While at the canyon, we came across a bus full of kids on a field trip. They were SO excited to have their pictures taken and be able to see themselves on the camera. And I was equally excited to spend a few minutes with them! The canyon’s “three rondavals” were very cool.</div>
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We also saw Bourke’s Luck Potholes, located at the intersection of the Blyde River (river of joy) and the Treur River (river of sorrow). The “potholes” were formed by whirling water erosion over thousands of years. From there we went to “God’s Window,” a beautiful look-out over 700-meter cliffs down to Lowveld. After a long day of exploring, as well as learning that baboon crossings on the highway can be both funny and scary, we spend the night at an adorable B & B near Hazyview.</div>
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From South Africa we flew up to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. As we came down to land, we had to ascend again and circle around and try again because there were baboons on the runway! After finally getting through customs, we took an hour-long ride to <a href="http://www.botswanatourism.co.bw/chobeNationalpark.php"><u>Chobe, Botswana</u></a>. Although winter, it was much warmer in Botswana than it was in South Africa. The Chobe Safari Lodge was also much different from Umlani; the “lodge” felt much more like a giant touristy hotel than a small, intimate lodge. I likened the whole experience to a “Disneyworld” of safaris. It was all very self-contained and a bit mechanical. I’m not sure if it’s related, but it was also where we saw the most Americans on the entire trip. In the morning, hoards of people showed up to be assigned to a random safari truck, and the game drive seemed very, well, scripted in a way: no off-roading, little stopping upon request, and not a lot of questions from the safari goers. The driver, who was very nice and seemed to be quite knowledgeable, seemed more to be just doing a job rather than doing something he loves (as opposed to how the guides and trackers were in South Africa). We did see some lions and giraffes and loads of elephants, kudu, impala, and birds, which was all very cool. And watching the sunrise over Botswana was beautiful.</div>
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That afternoon we went with a local villager and guide across the Chobe River to his village in Namibia. The Kapuva village is on Impalila Island on Namibia’s Caprivi Strip. The island lies between the Chobe and the Zambezi Rivers. We talked about the relations between and among tribes as well as the chief’s role in the tribe and the role of women and children. Only about half of the children on the island go to school because school isn’t subsidized by the government so if parents can’t afford school, their children don’t go to school. Perhaps tea party members who are advocating eliminating the department of education should pay a visit to this and other parts of Africa. We had brought with us pens and pencils for the kids, and it was great fun to see their faces when getting them! One of the moms asked for a pen for herself, too. Some of the kids started playing sword fighting with the pencils and were scolded.</div>
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Later that day we did a boat safari on the Chobe River and saw tons of hippos and crocodiles (which I did not feel badly at all about eating!). The day ended with another beautiful sunset. The only goal for the rest of the day was to keep the monkeys from stealing our butter and bread from the dinner table.</div>
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The next morning I decided to skip the game drive and slept in until a heavenly 7:30 (speaking as someone who struggles to get to work before 9am). Matt went on the drive so we met at breakfast around 9 before scrambling to pack to leave for Victoria Falls. The border crossings were easy enough as we just missed a rush of truck drivers and tourist vans! One of the guards gave our driver a bit of a hard time and made him go back to get a “gate pass” to get through, but I suppose there are always people who will be difficult just because they can be. It only took an hour to get to Vic Falls. We were disappointed with the B & B as it was pretty far from both town and the falls, but also because it felt more like a dorm than a guesthouse compared to all of the places we had stayed. But we sucked it up since it was only a few days. We made our way into town, which was cute, and had lunch in a local café. I had the crocodile, which was just as good as the previous times I’d had it, and Matt tried the zebra, which was a little too close to tough horse meat to be very good. It was striking how different Zimbabwe was from the other countries we’d been to. The effects of the Mugabe government can be seen everywhere, and we even bought some of Zim’s devalued currency (a 500 Billion dollar bill!). There were many more touts than we had seen in other countries (save for our last trip to Morocco). We went to an outdoor market with lots of stalls right next to each other. It was fascinating that each merchant would stand patiently until we entered his stall space, and then he (and it was always a he) would accost us and practically beg us to take a look at his things and negotiate a good price. But they were completely respectful of each others’ stall space. They were all selling mostly the same stuff: wood carvings, nick-knacks, etc. It was quite exhausting to get through the entire market as each merchant was very persistent! Many were very friendly, though, and wanted to talk about the U.S. (as well as what kinds of gift from his shop our U.S. friends would like). Some of the merchants had names for their “stores,” including “Chris Rock Shop,” “LA Lakers Store,” and “Chicago Bulls Store.” They were also interested in bartering for tee-shirts, socks, pens, and pencils. It made me think of the boxes of pens that I have at home that haven’t even been unpacked since we moved almost two years ago and how useful they could be in Zim and other places—how much I take little things for granted that are coveted in other places in the world. One of the merchants agreed to carve me a wooden kudu since I had been looking for one since South Africa and couldn’t find one. We returned two days later, the morning of our flight out, to retrieve it.</div>
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That night we went to the famous Victoria Falls Lodge for a drink before going to dinner. At the Lodge, we had a fascinating conversation with our driver, who was educated as a geology teacher but also had a lot to say about the country’s history and politics with Mugabe. For dinner, we went to Boma (meaning “a place of eating”), a very touristy but very fun theme restaurant. It was made to look like a Zim village and included a face painter, story teller, and fortune teller in addition to the drumming and amazing buffet of wild foods. Matt got a certificate for eating a mopane worm, although he seems to enjoy them and has eaten them before (I draw the line at insects). The Boma was kind of like a Zim version of a Hawaiian luau.</div>
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The next day was a whirlwind of activities! While in South Africa, one of the safari managers had recommended doing the lion encounter when in Vic Falls. The <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTuAiTGWBAM"><u>lion encounter</u> </a>was with a conservation organization that used a four-step process to reverse the decline of the lion population in the last 50 years. We got a chance to pet and walk with two sibling cubs that were about 15-months old. After about 18 months the cubs are too old to be around people and they’re kept in a wildlife sanctuary where they mate. Their cubs are then kept from human contact and eventually released to the wild.</div>
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After some tasty ostrich burgers for lunch, we went for a <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHgGKTruvuw"><u>helicopter ride over the falls</u></a>. It was extra exciting because it was my first-ever helicopter ride! The falls were incredible, and it was really cool to see them from the air because I hadn’t realized that it was a huge gorge. We also got really lucky because this time of year the falls are usually much weaker, sometimes even at a trickle. For our ride, we were paired with an older Australian couple with whom we became friendly. It turned out that we were all going on a Zambezi River safari cruise later and so we sat together there as well. Watching our last African sunset over the Zambezi was bittersweet, and we toasted to Africa eating dinner at Mama Africa later that night.</div>
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The next day we got to see the falls up close and personal. Before reaching them, though, we stopped to see a 1500-year old baobab tree, which was beautiful! When we finally entered Victoria Falls National Park, we didn’t mind sharing the pathway with tons of monkeys, who didn’t seem to mind in the least that we were there. The power coming from the Zambezi and the mist the falls created were incredible!</div>
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The next time we woke up, just like that, we were in Dubai. The contrast between Zimbabwe and Dubai is striking! We went from mosquito-infested toilets with no seats or paper to warmed toilet seats with not only abundant toilet paper, but also a scented wash for the toilet paper and with rose petals on every towel. From abject poverty and oppression to over-the-top opulence and gluttony. Dubai was like nothing I have ever seen before. The UEA Sheik has so much money he doesn’t know what to do with it, so he built islands off of the Persian Gulf made to look like palms and other islands made to look like a map of the world. He built malls that are mini-cities, complete with a ski slope, an aquarium, and an ice rink. In fact, the mall culture in Dubai is fascinating (perhaps because of the weather?)! He grows skyscrapers and high-rises like weeds, most of which aren’t even occupied! The skyline reminded me a little of the dream city in the movie Inception; it was very surreal and a bit creepy. Everything is so expensive and built for commercialism and extravagance.</div>
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Our hotel in Dubai was just beautiful and fit right in to the extravagance! We were directly facing the Gulf and could see the Atlantis on the palm island and the famous Burj Al Arab sailboat hotel a little farther down. After being in the bush and on the road for so long, it was so nice to have big, fluffy towels and great water pressure and swank toiletries and turn-down service! And breakfast and dinner were included in our package, so we got to sample amazing local and international food from one of the hotel’s restaurant, including camel’s milk. We arrived around 6am but weren’t able to get our room until around 10:30, which was expected. For whatever reason, our travel agent told the hotel it was our honeymoon, so they brought us a beautiful vase of flowers, a bottle of champagne, and a cake. The Emiratis sure know how to treat people! After a quick nap, the rest of the day went something like this: eat, sleep, swim, read, repeat. It was so awesome! We hung out on the beach for as long as we could considering the temperature was slightly cooler than the surface of the sun. The Gulf water was like warm bath water, so it wasn’t very refreshing, although it was nice to be in it. It was much saltier than I expected. Not quite Dead Sea levels of saltiness, but enough so that the water burned my skin at first and it was easy to float.</div>
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The next day we went to the Dubai Mall to go to the top of the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world (at least for now; it won’t be for long if the Saudis have anything to say about it). I was able to get some photos of the skyline from the plane and it’s amazing how much taller the Burj Khalifa is compared to the rest of the city. With plans to go to the souks and the mosque see other places in Dubai, we ended up spending most of the day in the mall! There was a mix of Western and Arab stores and things to see; it was actually a bit overstimulating and exhausting.</div>
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And then, just like that, we were home. After nearly a month of not needing my keys, I had remembered to pack them on top so they were readily available when we got home. After loooooong lines that we hadn’t experiences since Zimbabwe, we arrived home around 4pm local time, fell asleep on the couch around 5pm, and then woke up around 7am the next morning. Time will tell how long it will take to get readjusted, but I’m already thinking about what’s next! Antarctica seems to be a good place to see before the glaciers are all gone, but it would sure be nice to return to Cape Town and then explore East Africa! There are just too many places in the world to see in one lifetime. We’ll try to see as many as we can!</div>
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LION ENCOUNTER</div>
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HELICOPTER RIDE OVER VICTORIA FALLS</div>
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Dr. Amy Bacharachhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02497628032742575429noreply@blogger.com0